Articles
Tom Barr's Journal
Thematically structured
This article is a transcript of Tom Barr's journal on ukaps.org (pp. 1-37), where he kept records of his 120-gallon aquarium called Dutch something or the other. For better comparison with the original, I decided to keep the structure of the individual posts, but for greater clarity, I have selected only Barr's posts and [with the help of AI] categorized the information within each post into specific topics.
By clicking on a selected topic in the list below, you will see only posts belonging to that topic (with all others being hidden).
- 🧊 Tank
- 💡 Lighting
- 🫧 CO2 & flow
- 🧪 Fertilization/dosing
- 🟤 Substrate
- ✂️ Maintenance & horticultural methods
- 🌀 Filtration
- 💧 Water-changes
- 🌱 Plants
- 🐟 Livestock
- 🦠 Algae
- 💰 Sales & business model
- 📖 Important notes
PS: There's also a second (parallel) version of this journal on barrreport.com.
Tank Dimensions & Specs:
| Parameter | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Name | Dutch something or the other | "Něco na způsob holandského akvária" |
| Volume | 120 gallons (454 liters) | |
| Dimensions | 120 × 75 × 45 cm | (width/length × depth × height) |
| Glass Thickness | ~12 mm (½ inch)(?) | Typical for rimless tanks of this size |
| Style | Dutch Aquascape | Focus on plant groupings, contrast, and structure |
| Lighting | ATI 8 × 54W (122 cm) T5 + dimmer | initially: 50-90-120 µmol PAR later: 150-190-500 µmol PAR (1/2012+) |
| CO2 Injection | Yes | 45-50 mg/ℓ → pH 5.9–6.2 (KH 1.1-2.1) |
| Filtration | Sump system | CPR 1000 wet/dry filter, herbie style overflow |
| Place | Sacramento, CA |
Plant nutrients averages in local tap water (mg/ℓ): <0.5 NO3−, 34 SO42−, 3 Cl−, 26 HCO3− (1.2°dKH), 16 Ca2+ + 3 Mg2+ (2°dGH), 3 K+, 2 Na+ (based on Sacramento water quality report from 2012) |
| Operating period | ~7 years | Most active period: 2012 – 2013/2014 |
Page 01
First page outlines the creation of a vibrant, Dutch-inspired “garden style” aquascape built around a bonsai-like wood centerpiece, with strong red–green plant contrasts and structured planting “plots.” It focuses on aesthetic goals, plant selection and arrangement, livestock details, and lighting setup, along with plans to refine textures, add hardscape, and sell plant trimmings to offset running costs.
Show details #1 …
Post #1 (26 Sep 2011):
📖 Important Notes (Goals & Concepts):
- The primary goal is to create a colorful, bright, and cheery "garden style" aquarium.
- The style is a hybrid: inspired by Dutch-style "plant streets" and color contrast, but using wood as a central hardscape element reminiscent of a bonsai tree.
- The author acknowledges it is not a naturalistic style ("FAR from natural style").
- A secondary business goal is for the tank to generate enough revenue from selling plants to cover its energy costs and provide motivation for maintenance.
🧊 Tank:
- The aquascape is 4-5 weeks old at the time of posting, having been completely rescaped from a previous "boring" setup.
🟤 Substrate:
- Plan to "Add a bit more ADA Aqua Soil (AS) to the rear" to shore up the level.
🌱 Plants:
- The planting uses a contrast of green and red plants, described as looking almost like "Christmas."
- Specific plant mentioned: Rotala wallichii ("dowonoi") is being thinned out.
- Considered but rejected using Staurogyne belem ("S belem") for being too "weedy and large."
🐟 Livestock:
- Current livestock includes: a very large population of Fire shrimp (500-1000), 3 Gold Nugget plecos, 100 Amano shrimp, and ~20 Sturisoma fry (3 cm).
- The main community fish species is still undecided.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Allow plant groups to fill in and thicken up before trimming into a staggered, ascending pattern from front to back.
- Remove plants on the sides, which were being used as nursery areas.
- Add smaller pieces of wood to create more planting spots.
- Rearrange plant groups to improve textural differences beyond just color.
- Keep the front glass (2-3 cm) clear of plants.
Planned Improvements:
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Explicitly states the intent to sell plants from this tank to cover energy costs and ideally make a small profit.
Post #13 (27 Sep 2011):
📖 Important Notes (Goals & Concepts):
- In response to a comment, the author clarifies that while the wood provides natural inspiration, the color factor was the primary goal for this aquascape.
- The wood is used to border the "plots" of plants to keep the layout tidy.
- Describes a technique of wrapping mosses (e.g., Fissidens, Flame moss) or liverworts on the roots to add different colors and finer textures.
- Notes that moss is used between hardscape and foreground plants to soften the look and add depth to the midground.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions the use of mosses (Fissidens, Flame moss) and liverworts as design elements on the hardscape.
Post #18 (27 Sep 2011):
💡 Lighting:
- Fixture: Tek fixture.
- Bulbs: 4x 54W T5 bulbs.
- Bulb Types: 3 Powerchrome bulbs and 1 Giesemann Aquaflora bulb.
- Intensity: PAR is about 50 at the substrate level.
Page 02
The author continues refining a large, 450 L, 80 cm‑deep planted aquascape, focusing on frequent trimming for plant sales, swapping species (Rotala wallichii for Ludwigia pantanal), and adding small wood elements to improve structure. They detail the full plant list, lighting setup, and design preferences (no spray bars, dislike of pink bulbs), while noting accidental emergent growth, a substantial driftwood supply, and plans to experiment with LED lighting.
Show details #2 …
Post #24 (30 Sep 2011):
📖 Important Notes:
- The author has a large personal supply of driftwood ("a ton or two... in my yard").
Post #28 (5 Oct 2011):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The author trims plants to sell them, which provides motivation for maintenance.
- States that selling aquarium plants is financially rewarding, comparing the value of the "crop" favorably to cannabis.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- In response to a question about emersed growth, the author says it may happen in the background by accident from lack of trimming, but the primary goal is trimming for sales.
Post #30 (6 Oct 2011):
🧊 Tank:
- The tank has a significant front-to-back depth of about 80 cm.
🌱 Plants:
- Identifies the plant growing on top of the wood as Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides.
- Explains that emergent growth often happens by accident when plants snag on wood that breaks the surface. If it looks bad, it is removed.
📖 Important Notes:
- Notes that water clarity appears misty in photos but less so in person.
Post #31 (13 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Update: The aquascape still needs work.
- Plans to redo the Rotala wallichii group and add Ludwigia pantanal in its place for more frequent trimming.
- Plans to add more small wood combinations.
- States that a "couple more trims" should get the scape into a "good zone."
- The left side needs work, while the right side is improving.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants for potential use: Rotala wallichii and Ludwigia pantanal.
Post #33 (13 Oct 2011):
💡 Lighting:
- Fixture: Tek 4ft T5HO fixture, painted white.
- Bulbs: 3 Giesemann Powerchrome Daylight bulbs and 1 Giesemann Aquaflora ("pink") bulb.
- Opinion: The author does not like the pink color of the Aquaflora bulb and plans to switch it for a daylight bulb.
- Total Wattage: 216W.
- Height: The fixture is mounted 70–80 cm above the tank and about 1 meter from the plants.
- Future Plans: Plans to try LED lighting in 1–2 months. Stresses the need to carefully measure light to avoid adding too much. Plans to use half the total light and dim them to prevent light spill. May keep the T5 fixture to grow Maidenhair fern in pots next to the tank.
🧊 Tank:
- Volume: The tank is 450 liters, with a total system volume of about 500 liters.
Post #35 (14 Oct 2011):
🌱 Plants:
- Provides a full plant species list for the aquarium:
- Myriophyllum matogrossense
- Anubias barteri var. coffeefolia
- Bolbitis heudelotii
- Cryptocoryne parva
- Utricularia graminifolia (UG)
- Glossostigma elatinoides (Gloss)
- Pogostemon helferi (Downoi)
- Ludwigia palustris "red"
- Rotala wallichii
- Pogostemon stellatus (P. stellata)
- Ludwigia arcuata (L. arcurata)
- Alternanthera reineckii (A. reineckii)
- Didiplis diandra (D. diandra)
- Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides (H. sibthorpes)
- Micranthemum umbrosum (M. tuberculatum – old name)
- Echinodorus angustifolia 'Vesuvius' (Ech agustafolia vesuvinus)
- Tonina fluviatilis (Tonia fluv)
- Ludwigia verticillata 'Pantanal' (L vertilicilata pantanal)
- Ludwigia peruensis/Ludwigia glandulosa (L perunesis/granulosus)
- Eriocaulon cinereum (Erio cinerum)
- Staurogyne porto velho
Post #37 (14 Oct 2011):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- In response to a question about a spray bar return, the author states: "I've never been fond of spray bar returns," noting that Takashi Amano and reef aquarium hobbyists also do not use them.
Page 03
Brief summary …
Show details #3 …
Post #41 (15 Oct 2011):
📖 Important Notes:
- A brief, aesthetic-based reply to an unspecified question (likely about design choices).
Post #43 (15 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Changes Made: Moved Rotala wallichii to the rear, shifted Ludwigia pantanal, and thinned out Pogostemon stellatus and Myriophyllum matogrossense.
- Planning: Considering adding Tonina or Eriocaulon to a path but is concerned about a lack of textural contrast. Needs a small-leaved plant that won't overshadow the Eriocaulon or block the view of the wood's structure ("nebari").
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants for planning: Tonina, Eriocaulon, Rotala wallichii, Ludwigia pantanal.
Post #44 (15 Oct 2011):
🌱 Plants:
- Brainstorms potential plant species for the problem spot: a smaller lace plant (rejected for size), Isoetes, Bacopa lanigera, Hottonia, or a dwarf red sword.
Post #45 (18 Oct 2011):
🐟 Livestock:
- Added 30 Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish. They are noted to be eating well.
Post #47 (21 Oct 2011):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- CO2 Level: States that CO2 is maintained at approximately 50 ppm.
- Livestock Tolerance: Notes that Gold Nugget plecos are more sensitive to CO2 than shrimp, and both are doing fine.
💡 Lighting:
- PAR Values: Provides specific PAR measurements:
- Substrate: 50 µmol
- Mid-tank: 90 µmol
- Surface: 120 µmol
Post #48 (22 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Problem Area: Identifies a specific area for redesign. Plans to remove Utricularia graminifolia (UG) from its current dominant location and replace it with Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC) or another low-growing species.
- Other Plans: Wants to add more Tonina and Ludwigia "guinea", add more Eriocaulon, and "staircase" a giant Eriocaulon next to the red Ludwigia.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants being moved or considered: Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC), Tonina, Ludwigia "guinea", Eriocaulon.
📖 Important Notes:
- Water is cloudy post-maintenance.
Post #51 (22 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Pruning Cycle: Prunes on a 2-week cycle. Currently does sections but will transition to full-tank pruning later.
- Rescaping Plans: Plans to reslope the UG area. Considering replacing UG with Elatine triandra, acknowledging it's a fast-growing "weed" but has a desirable bright green color and growth form.
- Plant Placement: Considering moving Rotala wallichii to the front row for contrast with a green fine-needle plant (Erio "giant").
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants: Utricularia graminifolia (UG), a red Hygrophila, Rotala wallichii, Elatine triandra.
Post #55 (26 Oct 2011):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Myth Busting: Strongly refutes the claim that Utricularia graminifolia (UG) requires low-nutrient ("bare") water. States it grows exceptionally well ("grow the snot out of it") with high fertilization, both in the sediment and water column.
🌱 Plants:
- Uses the health and invasive potential of his UG, Glossostigma, and other creepers as evidence that they thrive with high ferts.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Teases upcoming post-trim pictures after making "nice changes".
Post #56 (27 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Update: A major trim was performed, and cuttings were sold.
- Specific Changes:
- Testing new red plants (Rotala macrandra, R. magenta) to replace R. wallichii in a specific spot.
- Planning to add more ADA Aqua Soil over the Eriocaulon cinereum to allow them to expand without uprooting.
- Adding driftwood borders on the left to adjust the slope for Ludwigia peruensis and Tonina.
- Letting a "Giant Erio setaceum" grow out to get side sprouts before maintaining it at a lower height.
- Testing Proserpinaca palustris for a potential front or mid-ground spot.
- UG Health: Posts a picture as proof of UG's excellent growth under high-fertilization conditions.
🟤 Substrate:
- Specifically mentions using and adding more ADA Aqua Soil (AS).
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Notes that cuttings from the trim were sold.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants being worked with: Rotala wallichii, R. macrandra, R. magenta, Ludwigia pantanal, L. peruensis, Eriocaulon cinereum, E. setaceum (Giant Erio), Tonina, Proserpinaca palustris, Utricularia graminifolia (UG).
Post #58 (27 Oct 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- UG Planting Method: Did not plant UG in its pot. Used 2 cm plugs and allowed it to fill in over 2–3 months.
🟤 Substrate:
- Confirms UG is planted in ADA Amazonia soil.
💡 Lighting:
- A commenter notes their PAR is ~40 at the substrate, and UG is growing slowly.
Post #60 (28 Oct 2011):
📖 Important Notes (Goals & Concepts):
- Photography Philosophy: Takes pictures post-trim and during cloudy water intentionally to show the realistic, "dirty and filthy" process and discourage others from being intimidated by perfect images.
- Scaping Philosophy: Aims for a formal "Dutch-style" garden with high diversity, color, and controlled "collectoritis." Wants to do something different from the popular Nature style.
- Methodology Defense: Vigorously defends the Estimative Index (EI) fertilization method against claims that it causes "too fast" growth unsuitable for aquascaping, using this tank as a counterexample.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Acknowledges the tank is still a "work in progress" as he finalizes plant species for the right contrast, color balance, and manageable growth.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Revenue: The tank has already generated about $700 from selling plants and is just starting to sell Fire shrimp at $3 each. The goal is for the tank to be self-funding.
Page 04
Brief summary …
Show details #4 …
Post #63 (30 Oct 2011):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Sump & CO2: Uses a wet/dry (sump) system. The sump is sealed to prevent CO2 loss.
- Efficiency: The overflow design sucks air and any degassed CO2 back into the sump to be re-dissolved, making it a "one way trip."
- Dosing: States that the CO2 bubble rate is the same as it would be with a canister filter, indicating the system is very efficient and does not require extra CO2.
🌀 Filtration:
- Confirms the use of a wet/dry sump system.
Post #64 (30 Oct 2011):
🐟 Livestock:
- Notes that the Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish are behaving well, with only one jumper so far.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Rescaping: Redid the left side of the tank.
- Specific Changes: Removed Cryptocoryne parva and created a U-shaped bed of Utricularia graminifolia (UG) around the Ludwigia peruensis.
- Future Plans: Plans to adjust the Eriocaulon group, bring it forward, and replace the rear with Hygrophila 'araguia'. Decides against using Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC), calling it an "infernal weed." Brainstorms using Limnophila mini.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants: Cryptocoryne parva, Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Ludwigia peruensis, Eriocaulon, Hygrophila 'araguia', Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC), Limnophila mini.
Post #66 (2 Nov 2011):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Regime: A semi-modified Estimative Index (EI) method.
- Macros (3x per week): 1.5 tsp KNO3 (~9 g), 0.75 tsp KH2PO4 (~4.5 g).
- 1 tsp ≈ 6.0 grams
- Barr's Macros:
- 9 g KNO3 per 454 ℓ = 7.7 mg/ℓ K+ + 12.2 mg/ℓ NO3−
- 4.5 g KH2PO4 per 454 ℓ = 2.8 mg/ℓ K+ + 7.0 mg/ℓ H2PO4−
- Sum per dose: 10.5 mg/ℓ K+, 12.2 mg/ℓ NO3−, 7.0 mg/ℓ H2PO4−
- Sum per week (3x dose): 31.5 mg/ℓ K+, 36.6 mg/ℓ NO3−, 21.0 mg/ℓ H2PO4−
- Simple N-Calculator: KNO3 (g) = 0.00163 g/ℓ × [desired conc. NO3−] × [tank volume in ℓ]
- Simple P-Calculator: KH2PO4 (g) = 0.001416 g/ℓ × [desired conc. H2PO4−] × [tank volume in ℓ]
- Micros (4x per week): ~0.5 ppm Fe (as a proxy for all traces).
- After Water Change: 4 tsp of GH Booster (~20 g).
- 4 tsp ≈ 20.0 grams
- Barr's GH Booster:
- Compounds: K2SO4 + CaSO4·2H2O + MgSO4·7H2O
- Molar ratio = 3 : 3 : 1
- Mass ratio = 2.12 : 2.1 : 1
- Mass ratio: 8.08 g K2SO4 : 8.08 g CaSO4·2H2O : 3.85 g MgSO4·7H2O (per 120 gallon tank)
- Resulting concentration (mg/ℓ): 8.0 K+, 4.14 Ca2+, 0.84 Mg2+, 23.0 SO42−
- Simple Calculator: Barr's GH Booster (g) = 0.06451 g/ℓ × [desired °dGH] × [tank volume in ℓ]
- Excel: Used Seachem Excel for 2–3 weeks but observed no effect.
- Key Factors: Emphasizes "good CO2, good sediment, good wide spaced lighting."
- Additional Nutrients: Notes that aggressive feeding of shrimp and fish provides ample additional Nitrogen (N) and Phosphorus (P) from waste.
- 16 Ca2+, 3 Mg2+, 3 K+, 2 Na+, 34 SO42−, 3 Cl−, 26 HCO3− (from tap water)
- 23 K+, 37 NO3− (from KNO3)
- 8 K+, 21 H2PO4− (from KH2PO4)
- 8 K+, 4 Ca2+, 1 Mg2+, 23 SO42− (from GH Booster)
- Sum of all cations: 20 Ca2+ + 4 Mg2+ (3.7°dGH), 42 K+, 2 Na+
- Sum of all anions: 37 NO3−, 21 H2PO4−, 57 SO42−, 3 Cl−, 26 HCO3− (1.2°dKH)
- Important note: Throughout the entire 37-page thread, Tom Barr never explicitly describes how he physically doses the dry fertilizers. Whether he sprinkles the powders directly into the aquarium, adds them into the wet/dry sump, pre-dissolves them in water first, or uses any other method — is never stated. The only dosing details provided are the amounts and frequencies.
🐟 Livestock:
- Mentions the shrimp are aggressive eaters, so fish must compete for food.
Post #67 (4 Nov 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Foreground Trimming Technique: For foreground plants like Glossostigma, allows a build-up of 2–3 leaf layers before "mowing" it down. States this leads to good recovery in 2–3 weeks.
- Advice: Warns against waiting too long (10–20 leaf layers) as recovery is slower and more shocking to the plants. Advocates for frequent, small trims over large, infrequent ones ("consistent good care").
- Weed Management: Notes that Glossostigma is a "weed" that sends runners under hardscape and invades other plant groups.
🐟 Livestock:
- Observes Fire shrimp swarming over the freshly trimmed substrate to eat microinvertebrates and algae.
🌱 Plants:
- Specifically discusses the management of Glossostigma elatinoides (Gloss).
Post #69 (5 Nov 2011):
🌱 Plants:
- Highlights Ludwigia palustris "red" as a nice, deep red, easy-to-grow plant that holds its color well.
- Cost: Paid $15 per stem initially but quickly made the money back through propagation.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Keeps this Ludwigia trimmed low to make it bush out, though notes it might be more suited for the background.
Post #70 (10 Nov 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Shows a sequence of pictures demonstrating the recovery of Glossostigma one week after a trim.
- States he is getting closer to the desired layout but is still waiting on a few more plant species to arrive.
🌱 Plants:
- Focuses on the growth and recovery of Glossostigma elatinoides.
Post #72 (10 Nov 2011):
💧 Water-changes:
- Method: Performs large water changes before rescaping, believing it places less stress on livestock than the reverse order.
🟤 Substrate:
- Notes that ADA Aqua Soil (AS) becomes murky and causes a haze for 1–2 days after being disturbed during rescapes.
📖 Important Notes:
- Photography Philosophy: Reiterates that he is documenting the realistic process, not creating competition-ready shots. Is not concerned with the temporary haze. Prefers simple videos over complex photo shoots with flashes.
Post #73 (14 Nov 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Posts a picture showing excellent plant recovery 1.5 weeks after trimming.
- Highlights that this trimming method is "VERY easy" and causes fewer issues than methods that involve uprooting and replanting.
Post #76 (14 Nov 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Substrate Depth: Reveals the foreground has only about 1 cm of ADA Aqua Soil.
- Horizontal Trimming: Advises to trim not just vertically but also horizontally to control the spread of carpeting plants like Glossostigma and HC. Suggests using a plastic paint scraper to cut evenly, "like cutting sod."
- Plant Value: States Glossostigma is not worth much money, so he usually tosses or gives it away.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Packing Method: Uses damp newspaper, paper towels, or junk mail, folded and placed inside 2–3 plastic grocery bags for shipping.
- Shipping: Uses 2–3 day mail service.
- Pricing Example: Gives an example of selling 20 Staurogyne repens plants for £10 + £3 shipping.
- Marketing Advice: States that nice pictures are the "best selling point and argument settler" for selling plants online.
🟤 Substrate:
- Confirms the use of ADA Aqua Soil (AS) and notes the very shallow depth in the foreground.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions Glossostigma elatinoides, Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC), and Staurogyne repens.
Post #78 (17 Nov 2011):
🐟 Livestock:
- Includes a picture focused on the fish.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Future Plans: Shows Rotala macrandra growing in the rear. Plans to create a "wedge triangle" from the mid to rear with it and Rotala wallichii to address background design issues.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions Rotala macrandra and Rotala wallichii.
Page 05
Brief summary …
Show details #5 …
Post #82 (17 Nov 2011):
🌱 Plants:
- Rotala macrandra: Describes it as a "classic red weed" that was once a standard, not overly difficult plant. States it can be grown in a wide range of conditions, from neglected discus tanks to low-light setups.
- Alternanthera reineckii: Calls it a nice, easy plant but one he rarely uses. Notes it is easier to grow than R. macrandra but a different shade of red. Better suited as a mid-ground plant, whereas R. macrandra is a background plant.
- Design Goal: Notes that in this tank, reds are used as the main part of the color scheme, not just accents, which is a significant challenge.
📖 Important Notes:
- States that the ability to grow any plant species well together is a key element of being a good gardener.
Post #83 (20 Nov 2011):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Experiment: Compared his Rotala macrandra (grown with rich NO₃/~20ppm and PO4/~5–7ppm + fish waste) to plants from another vendor (grown in ADA soil with virtually no Nitrogen).
- Result: The plants from both nutrient regimes looked identical, challenging the claim that R. macrandra requires specific low-N/P parameters for good color.
🟤 Substrate:
- Confirms the use of ADA Aqua Soil.
Post #85 (22 Nov 2011) & #87 (24 Nov 2011):
🐟 Livestock:
- Posts a picture of shrimp, identifying them as F3 generation (third generation) from the original batch.
Post #88 (28 Nov 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Carpet Maintenance: Shows a dense, 3 cm deep carpet (likely Glossostigma) that was mowed hard one month prior. Concludes that "mowing the rug once a month hard works well for this tank."
Post #91 (2 Dec 2011):
💡 Lighting:
- PAR Adjustment: Lowered the light fixture from 16" to 12" above the water.
- New PAR Values: 60 µmol at the substrate, 120 µmol at the surface.
- Experiment: Ran at 120 µmol for 2 weeks at 8 hours per day.
- Results:
- Plants grew faster and some colors improved in previously shaded areas.
- Negative: Caused a significant increase in algae on the glass, which was not present before.
- Conclusion: Attributes the improvement more to better light evenness than intensity. States that 120 µmol is "asking for more work" (cleaning glass, trimming). Prefers 60 µmol for very good growth with less maintenance.
- Lighting Categories: Proposes a PAR scale: Low (25–40), Mid (40–60), High (60–120) µmol at the substrate.
- Historical Context: Compares light levels to an old 90-gallon tank with Metal Halide lighting.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- CO2 Level: Confirms CO2 is maintained at about 50 ppm.
- Flow/Current: Notes the tank has "high current."
🐟 Livestock:
- Notes that fish and shrimp eat aggressively. So-called CO2-sensitive species (some plecos, elephant noses) are doing fine.
🌱 Plants:
- Observations:
- Shows two different color morphs (orange vs. red) of Rotala macrandra in the same tank, attributing the difference to recent trimming.
- Is not liking the Fissidens moss and considers replacing it.
- Mermaid weed has colored up nicely.
- Hydrothrix and Pogostemon stellatus are fast-growing "weeds" that need frequent trimming.
- Shrimp Damage: Reports that shrimp attacked Eriocaulon setaceum (to be removed) and Rotala wallichii (they later left it alone). Notes that shrimp density and feeding levels affect this behavior.
🦠 Algae:
- Cause & Effect: Directly links the increase in light intensity (to 120 µmol) to the appearance of algae on the glass.
- Solution: Reduced light intensity back to 60 µmol to avoid the maintenance.
Post #94 (3 Dec 2011):
🐟 Livestock:
- Identifies the shrimp as "Fire shrimp" (a grade above Sakura).
- Issue: The high population has started eating and pestering plant species with fine leaves. States "I really need to harvest" them.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The need to "harvest" implies the shrimp are also sold.
Post #95 (3 Dec 2011) & #96 (3 Dec 2011):
🦠 Algae:
- Current State: Reports no algae on the wood, attributing it to the high shrimp population. Only minor algae on the glass, which appeared after the light increase.
- Removal Method for Hardscape: Provides a detailed guide for spot-treating algae on exposed hardscape (e.g., during a large water change):
- Expose the rock/wood by lowering the water level.
- Spray affected areas with a product like Excel/Easy Carbo, a strong salt solution of KNO₃ or KH2PO4, or peroxide.
- Wait a few minutes before refilling.
- For submerged algae, use a syringe to target dose in still water, then scrub with a toothbrush.
- Biological Control: Notes that a Sturisoma catfish was previously effective at cleaning the glass but was removed 2 months ago.
💧 Water-changes:
- The algae treatment method involves performing a large water change to lower the water level.
Post #98 (5 Dec 2011):
📖 Important Notes:
- Encouragement: Tells another hobbyist they have the skill to achieve similar results, noting that the red plants are "not 'hard to grow' by any means."
- Key Challenge: The main thing is "making them look good and contrast well without overwhelming things."
- Tank Condition: Notes the view is slightly compromised by high current causing ripples and not being "crystal clear."
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Reiterates the tank has "high current."
Post #99 (5 Dec 2011):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Update: Plans to add new plant species and has removed a lot of Pogostemon helferi (Downoi).
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The Downoi was removed due to a "good sale price offer," indicating it was sold.
Post #100 (5 Jan 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Future Plans: Will add a new ATI dimmer fixture.
- Expected Outcome: A midday light burst at 30–40% higher intensity, with an overall 20% reduction in energy use.
- Bulb Testing: Has purchased a dozen different T5 bulb types from brands like Giesemann, GE, ATI, Coralife, and Aqualife to experiment with color spectrum.
- Photography: Mentions possibly using a flash for better photography to capture depth of field and true color.
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Post #104 (6 Jan 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- High CO2 Justification: Explains that running high CO2 (50 ppm in this tank, 70 ppm in his 180g) is safe due to the use of wet/dry filters, which maintain higher oxygen (O2) levels (1–2 ppm more than canister filters). This provides a "wiggle room" for CO2.
- Theory: Suggests that tanks with high biological oxygen demand (BOD) from wood, plant biomass, or fish load may require higher O2, which wet/dry filters provide.
- Method: Describes a historical approach of slowly and progressively increasing CO2 while watching plant response until they are "happy as could be."
💡 Lighting:
- LED vs. T5: Discusses the trade-off with LEDs, noting they can have hotspots ("lots of light in one smaller area") whereas T5 offers a better spread.
- Efficiency: States that for his photoperiod (5–6 hours at full blast), a T5 fixture (ATI) is as energy efficient as LEDs would be over a longer period (8–10 hours). He also values the wider color spectrum options available with T5 bulbs.
- Photography: Prefers using a flash for photography but acknowledges he could use a high ISO on his camera (5D2) instead.
🌀 Filtration:
- Reiterates that all his tanks use wet/dry sump filters.
📖 Important Notes:
- Mentions that Takashi Amano also used a sump on his home tank.
Post #105 (6 Jan 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- In response to a question about achieving a good aquascape, replies: "Screw up for 20 years 1st, that's how."
- Includes pictures of a natural landscape where he collects his driftwood.
Post #107 (6 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Explains that the Tonina is not neatly trimmed because he is growing out stumps behind a Ludwigia "hedge" to produce more tops and fatten the group.
- References an old "simple rows" aquascape as an example of his style.
🌱 Plants:
- Current Tank: Mentions issues with Eriocaulon setaceum (attacked by shrimp) and Syngonanthus species (avoids them because he has Tonina).
- Plants to Test: Lists Tonina 'lotus blossom', Ammannia gracilis, and Monosolenium (as a potential replacement for Fissidens on the wood).
🐟 Livestock:
- Repeats that Fire shrimp attacked Eriocaulon setaceum.
Post #108 (6 Jan 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Debate on CO2 Levels: Engages in a detailed debate about reported CO2 levels in Takashi Amano's tanks. He is highly skeptical of claims that they run at only 15–20 ppm.
- His Method: States that he and other top aquascapers he knows adjust CO2 by eye based on plant growth and fish behavior, and only measure it afterward to see what level the tank stabilized at. He finds these levels are often similar to his own (40–70 ppm).
- Theory: Suggests that low-flow, sparsely stocked tanks (like many ADA displays) can potentially run higher CO2 more safely because there's less risk of gassing fish. Also notes that canister filters, with their reduced surface agitation, allow CO2 to build up to higher levels.
- Measurement Challenge: Acknowledges that accurately measuring CO2 over an entire photoperiod is difficult and that poor testing procedures may lead to incorrect low readings.
💧 Water-changes:
- Notes that the Dutch NBAT members perform large water changes before competitions to achieve "purer water" for more points, which also helps with gas exchange and tank appearance.
🌀 Filtration:
- Contrasts the gas exchange dynamics of canister filters (less surface agitation, CO2 builds up) vs. wet/dry sumps (more O2, more surface agitation).
📖 Important Notes:
- Emphasizes that CO2 is the most critical and toughest parameter to get right and is potentially the most lethal to fish if done incorrectly.
- Suggests that general advice to keep CO2 at 15–20 ppm is a safe starting point for beginners, but intermediate/advanced hobbyists can carefully explore higher levels.
Post #111 (7 Jan 2012) & #112 (7 Jan 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Provides context on his driftwood collection site, describing it as a natural, logged, and periodically burned forest area near Lake Tahoe. The wood sometimes has charred marks from fires.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Livestock Sensitivity: Notes that wild discus, elephant nose fish, some plecos, and large, fast-swimming fish are more susceptible to higher CO2 levels.
- Mitigation: Suggests that lower temperatures, better surface movement (praising DoAqua lily pipes), and lots of water changes help manage higher CO2 levels.
- Tank Variability: States that his different tanks stabilize at different CO2 levels (40–70 ppm) based on their individual needs, and this is the toughest parameter to standardize.
Post #115 (8 Jan 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Update: Installed the new ATI dimmable fixture.
- Bulbs: Is using a mix of red/purple, 6500K, and ATI Blue Special bulbs. Notes that the purple addition significantly enhances the tank's colors.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Rescaping Plans:
- Plans to move Cryptocoryne parva to the foreground.
- Will move Fissidens moss higher up on the wood.
- Will add Hygrophila 'araguaia' and Ammannia gracilis (or Nesaea) to the rear left to replace Mermaid weed.
- Needs to find a spot for Tonina 'lotus blossom'.
- Will use uproot-and-replant method for Ludwigia "Red" to maintain a nicer look, as topping alone resulted in paler recovery.
🌱 Plants:
- Lists plants involved in changes: Cryptocoryne parva, Fissidens, Hygrophila 'araguaia', Ammannia gracilis/Nesaea, Mermaid weed, Tonina 'lotus blossom', Ludwigia pantanal, Ludwigia "Red".
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Sold 24 Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) for $140, leaving only scraps. Also previously sold 25 stems of Ludwigia pantanal and is now regrowing it. Acknowledges the "feast or famine" cycle of selling plant trims.
🐟 Livestock:
- Hopes that stronger growth will prevent Fire shrimp from attacking Eriocaulon setaceum when he reintroduces it.
Post #116 (8 Jan 2012) & #117 (8 Jan 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Reflects on communication challenges in online forums and the importance of nuance often lost in text.
- Shares a positive view of Takashi Amano, describing him as "funny" and "not serious," and believes that many in the hobby ultimately arrive at similar conclusions despite different starting points.
- Promotes online calculators for fertilizer dosing ("Wet's cal") and graphing EI dosing, emphasizing their utility and lack of ads/forum affiliation.
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Provides links to advanced online tools for calculating and graphing fertilizer dosing schedules.
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Post #121 (9 Jan 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- New Fixture: Took PAR readings with the new ATI SunPower fixture.
- PAR Values:
- At water's surface (12" from fixture): 500 µmol
- Middle of sediment: 180–190 µmol
- Bottom corners/front: 140–150 µmol
- Comparison: This is a 45% increase in PAR compared to the previous Tek fixture at the same height.
- Bulb Changes: Experimenting with bulb combinations. Removed a purple and the Giesemann Aquaflora bulb, replacing it with an Aquawave red bulb. Notes that fish colors look "10X better."
- Benefits: The ATI fixture has better reflectors that reduce light spill into the room. The dimmable function allows for many lighting strategies (midday spike, shorter photoperiod, overall lower intensity) without raising the fixture or wasting energy.
📖 Important Notes:
- States "the light meter does not lie," emphasizing the objective measurement over subjective perception of brightness.
Post #123 (12 Jan 2012):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Reiterates a link to "Wet's" online fertilizer calculator (http://calc.petalphile.com/), calling it fun to use.
- Notes that he is personally "much less interested in ferts these days" compared to 15 years ago.
Post #124 (16 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Current State: Describes the current layout as "lousy" scape-wise because it is a transitional phase with plants crammed in to recover and test locations.
- Plans:
- Needs to work on the front right area, adding 2–3 small pieces of wood to define borders between plant groups (Fissidens, Cryptocoryne parva, Eriocaulon).
- Plans to trim the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) to create open space.
- The right side needs more growth from Ludwigia pantanal and Tonina.
- Undecided on keeping Pogostemon helferi (Downoi).
- Final distinct grouping and trimming will be done later for a "prime photoshoot."
- Lighting: Still experimenting with various T5 bulb configurations.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants being worked with: Fissidens, Cryptocoryne parva, Eriocaulon, Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Ludwigia pantanal, Tonina, Pogostemon helferi (Downoi).
Post #128 (16 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Provides more detail on the "lousy" state, attributing it to his own high standards and impatience.
- Specific Tasks:
- Wants fatter Tonina groups and faster Downoi growth.
- Just planted Eriocaulon setaceum Type 1.
- Background was heavily trimmed 2 days ago and needs a week to recover.
- Left side needs UG trimming and new small pieces of wood.
- Ludwigia pantanal needs more stems to form a thick row.
- Needs to find spots for 3–4 plants.
- Cryptocoryne parva was moved to the front and is recovering.
- A new "Red low grow hygro" was planted in the far left rear corner.
- Conclusion: Acknowledges there is "a lot of work yet to be done" but is making progress.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants mentioned: Tonina, Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Eriocaulon setaceum, Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Ludwigia pantanal, Cryptocoryne parva, a "Red low grow hygro".
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Mentions the "feast or famine" cycle of selling trims, where you have either too much or too little to sell.
Post #132 (17 Jan 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- In a reply about Eriocaulon, states that Eriocaulon cinereum is "the easiest least troublesome plant in the display."
Post #133 (17 Jan 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Bulbs & Fish Color: Discusses that a mix of ATI Blue Special, purple, and pink/red bulbs enhances blue and red fish colors, but going too far can look weird. Acknowledges that testing bulbs is expensive.
- Brands: Mentions ATI, URI (makes a "super red sun" bulb), and Aquaflora/Rosette type bulbs. His personal preference is for higher color temperature whites/blues with a purple.
- Technique: Mentions designing custom light angles with LEDs in client tanks to specifically highlight fish.
🐟 Livestock:
- Fish Health: Reports a disease issue with his Rainbowfish. Symptoms include open sores, dropsy-like patterns, bloat, and swim bladder issues. Two courses of antibiotics in medicated food have not worked.
- Source: The first batch of fish from a wholesaler was poor; the second batch was nice but now infected. Considers breaking down the tank to remove them and source new fish directly from a breeder.
Post #134 (17 Jan 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Confirms the high power of ATI SunPower fixtures, noting another hobbyist had to raise them 18" above a deep tank.
- Dimmer Advantage: Highlights the benefit of the dimmer controller, allowing him to adjust intensity without raising the lights or causing light spill, ultimately using less energy.
Post #138 (18 Jan 2012):
🌀 Filtration:
- Sump Design: In response to a question, posts a picture of his sump. Points out that the top of the wet/dry chamber is sealed with tape to prevent CO2 loss, while the main sump area is open like the tank itself.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- The sump design is specifically intended to minimize CO2 loss.
📖 Important Notes:
- Humbly deflects praise, stating that Dutch aquascapers have long mastered the use of color, texture, and contrast.
Post #139 (18 Jan 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Comments on the Fire shrimp, noting that effort is required to "cull out the lower grades" to maintain their quality, otherwise they will revert to a less desirable appearance.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The practice of culling implies a business model focused on selling high-grade shrimp.
Post #140 (20 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Detailed Rescaping Plan: Outlines a complex plan for the right side of the tank:
- Move Ludwigia pantanal next to a large Eriocaulon.
- Move Tonina to the pantanal's old spot.
- Find a home for Tonina 'lotus blossom' away from regular Tonina.
- Replace Ludwigia peruensis with a mis-shipped Nesaea crassicaulis (a rare, nice red plant).
- Eventually add Ammannia gracilis to the rear.
- This continues the motif of alternating red and green rows with different textures.
- Add new wood and replant the overgrown UG on the left side.
- Final Challenges: The two biggest remaining decisions are finding a suitable home for Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) and Tonina 'lotus blossom'.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants involved in the plan: Ludwigia pantanal, Eriocaulon, Tonina, Tonina 'lotus blossom', Ludwigia peruensis, Nesaea crassicaulis, Ammannia gracilis, Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Didiplis diandra, Hydrotrix hottoniiflora, a forgotten bright green plant (genus "P"), a "Red lower growing hygro".
💡 Lighting:
- Photoperiod Schedule: Provides a detailed schedule for the dimmable ATI fixture:
- Total light period: 7 hours.
- First 2×54W bulbs ramp up over 1 hour to 100%.
- Then the other 6 bulbs ramp up over another hour to 100%.
- Full blast (all 8 bulbs at 100%) for 5 hours.
- All bulbs ramp down to 0% over 1 hour.
- CO2 Schedule: CO2 injection starts when the first pair of bulbs begins ramping up and turns off 45 minutes before the last light fades.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- The CO2 schedule is carefully synchronized with the lighting ramp periods.
🐟 Livestock:
- Repeats that the Eriocaulon setaceum was moved to recover "away from hungry Fire shrimp," and he will see if it stays healthy upon reintroduction.
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Post #141 (23 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Replanted the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) carpet.
- Finally removed the Glossostigma "rug".
🌱 Plants:
- Focuses on the management of Utricularia graminifolia (UG) and removal of Glossostigma elatinoides.
Post #144 (24 Jan 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The primary reason for the major replant/trim was to generate $120 in plant sales.
- Explains the dilemma: if he doesn't "mow" the carpet like a lawn, the plants pile up and cannot be sold, and he has to net out the trimmings as waste.
- States that trim methods are a personal choice based on goals (e.g., selling vs. purely aesthetic).
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Describes his process: tries different trimming methods for each species to decide what works best for his specific goals for the tank at that time.
Post #145 (24 Jan 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Expresses frustration at not finding a good spot for Tonina 'lotus blossom'.
- Has 3 types of Eriocaulon (including two types of E. setaceum), which he feels is plenty.
- Prefers Tonina over Syngonanthus for its brighter green color, having had "way too much" of the latter in the past.
- Brainstorms other plant possibilities: a smaller Syngonanthus, Piluaria americana, or rows of Isoetes (which are easy to care for).
Post #147 (24 Jan 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Difficulty: States that Syngonanthus species (like 'Belem', 'Manaus') are tougher to grow in his experience/opinion. Tonina is a little less difficult but harder to propagate.
- Observation: Notes the irony that some of the "hardest stem plants to grow" are all thriving together in this one tank with no issues other than needing frequent trimming.
Post #148 (25 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Performed a "good sized hack" on the rear section.
- Moved green plants farther back and brought red plants forward to the midground to increase red color and contrast.
Post #149 (27 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- New Plan: Aims to create a "wall of red" in the background using Rotala wallichii and R. macrandra.
- Will move Hydrothrix to the rear as it is "weedy" and clashes with the similar Eriocaulon setaceum (Type 3, "giant").
- Erio Success: The Eriocaulon setaceum (both Type 1 and 3) are now growing very well. Theorizes that previous shrimp damage was due to poor plant health upon introduction, not the shrimp themselves, especially since he is now "feeding the Fire shrimp a lot".
- Plant Trials:
- "Mini Bolbitus" has produced almost no growth in 2 months.
- "Low grow Red Hygro" is starting to creep and should fill in within 1–2 months.
- Nesaea crassicaulis was stunted; deciding whether to coax it back or toss it.
- Plans to use Ammannia gracilis in the rear instead of Mermaid weed for a bushier look.
- Considering trying Nesaea pedicillata (a nice yellow-red plant) for the rear.
🐟 Livestock:
- Reiterates that heavy feeding of the Fire shrimp seems to have stopped them from attacking healthy plants.
📖 Important Notes:
- The process involves "working through which plant species works best in each spot relative to the other."
Post #150 (29 Jan 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Update: Did more "hacking and moving".
- Specific Changes:
- Moved Rotala macrandra to form a "red mauve wall" and R. wallichii to fatten up in a corner.
- Removed Nesaea crassicaulis, Mermaid weed, and Cryptocoryne parva (may add C. parva back on the right side later).
- Moved the two Tonina species to opposite sides of the tank to prevent clashing.
- Plans to keep Tonina short to form a thick forest that doesn't hide the Fissidens or Eriocaulon behind it.
- Found a use for stray Fissidens: placed on top of emergent driftwood to grow out for future sales.
- Finalizing Species: Is very close to finalizing the plant species and their locations. Acquired Ammannia gracilis and is considering Nesaea pedicillata.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The practice of growing Fissidens on wood to then "pull them off and sell" is explicitly mentioned.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants being managed.
Post #152 (31 Jan 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- In a reply about Eriocaulon cinereum, states he has never had any issues growing it.
- Parameters: Grows it in "pretty warm" temperatures of 27–29°C and has never had it flower.
Post #154 (1 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Trimming Trick: Shares a technique: allowing plants to grow to the surface for a week before replanting tops (hasn't done it in this tank yet but plans to).
- Uses a turkey baster to clean debris from the center of Eriocaulon cinereum clumps.
- Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) is making a comeback from trimmed stumps.
🐟 Livestock:
- Fish Change: Pondering replacing the Rainbowfish with Red Serpae Tetras, but notes the tetras will likely eat the smaller shrimp (which the rainbows have not done).
🌱 Plants:
- Shows the developing "wall of Red" (Rotala macrandra) in the background.
Post #156 (1 Feb 2012):
💧 Water-changes:
- Notes that the water is clearer because this time he trimmed before the water change instead of after.
Post #158 (1 Feb 2012):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Provides a detailed dosing regimen:
- NO₃: ~45 ppm per week + ample N from soil (declining) and fish/shrimp waste (adds another 5–15 ppm per week as NH4/NO₃).
- PO4: 5 ppm, dosed 3× a week.
- Traces: 0.4 ppm Fe (as a proxy for all traces), dosed 4–5× a week.
- K: Over 50 ppm added per week.
- Water Changes: 50%, 2× a week.
💡 Lighting:
- Attributes the intense reds to a combination of excellent plant health and the color rendition from the T5 bulbs.
- States that using even redder bulbs (URI Sun, Coralife Colormax) could make the reds appear even more intense, as low color temperature bulbs reflect more red.
📖 Important Notes:
- Myth Busting: Addresses the theory of limiting Nitrogen to induce reds. While he was once the one who suggested low N enhances reds through stress, he clarifies that the stunning reds in this tank are due to "good overall health and care of the plants," not nutrient stress, under his high-nitrogen regime.
Post #159 (4 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Performed a "big hack" to reduce maintenance needs and improve light/flow for remaining plants.
- Specific Changes:
- Plans to remove Cryptocoryne parva finally.
- Will allow Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) to spread.
- Will keep Ludwigia peruensis and Ludwigia "red" lower using a combo of topping and uprooting/shortening stems.
- Removed Hydrothrix from a low-light area where it was rotting; will replace it with Myriophyllum matogrossense and Bolbitis.
- Next Phase: The tank is now in a "wait and watch the weeds grow" phase to let groups fatten up and be maintained.
🐟 Livestock:
- Notes the elephant nose fish ("double trunk") likes to hide in the spot where the Bolbitis will grow.
📖 Important Notes:
- The goal remains "open ended and experimental," which he finds enjoyable.
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Post #162 (12 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Reflects on the project, stating it has been a "fun tank" and that he has been careful not to change things too quickly.
- Notes that the journal provides a timeline to observe the effects of changes, grow-out time frames, and different trimming methods.
Post #163 (14 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Growth: After one week away, many plant species grew 6–8 inches.
- Trimming: Took 45 minutes to trim the tank back after this period of rapid growth.
- Observation: Notes that some Eriocaulon species flowered, which is "supposedly the kiss of death for them." He attributes this to reduced fertilization during the week he was away.
- Specific Plants: The "Low grow red hygro" is doing well in a low-light corner. The Eriocaulon setaceum Type 3 ("giant") grew exceptionally well after everything else was trimmed back, providing extra to sell.
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- The flowering of the Eriocaulon is directly linked to a period of "less ferts this week."
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The growth of Eriocaulon setaceum Type 3 was so prolific that he has "extra to sell."
💧 Water-changes:
- The process described was: take pictures, trim, take more pictures, then perform a water change (which made the water hazy), and then take pictures again.
Post #165 (14 Feb 2012):
🫧 CO2 & Flow:
- In a very brief reply to a question about his CO2 setup, he states the needle wheel pump for CO2 injection is integrated into the return pump of his sump system.
🌀 Filtration:
- Confirms the use of a sump system with a return pump.
Post #169 (14 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Trimming Philosophy: Advises to try different trimming methods (topping vs. uprooting/replanting) or hybrid methods to see what works best for each specific plant species.
- Goal: His approach is not just about growth but about "scape and assess which plants will be suited over the longer term."
- Schedule: Often trims about 1/4 of the tank once a week rather than 50–100% at once. If he does a large trim, he performs more frequent water changes.
💧 Water-changes:
- States that after a large trim, he might do water changes "2× a week 50%–60%."
Post #172 (16 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Current State: Describes the tank as "pretty gaudy looking with the wall of red plants." Plans to improve the "slope" and "front to back" view over the next 2–3 trims.
- Challenges: Some trimming appears ratty because he is still trying to fatten and fill in certain species.
- Future Plans: Considering moving plants around. In the rear right, considering letting Pogostemon stellatus grow out, or trying Ammannia gracilis, Nesaea pedicillata (for yellow/purple color), Cryptocoryne usteriana, or a Lace plant.
- Learning Experience: Values the project for teaching him about new species he hasn't kept in years or at all (e.g., Ludwigia "red", Eriocaulon setaceum type 3, Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides, Tonina 'lotus blossom').
📖 Important Notes:
- Style Definition: Expresses reluctance to call the tank a "Dutch scape." States it borrows methods and styles from Dutch influence but also has Nature Aquarium (NA) elements, making it a hybrid style he hasn't strictly defined.
🌱 Plants:
- Lists numerous plants being considered for changes.
Post #174 (18 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Recent Changes: Moved Echinodorus 'Vesuvius', trimmed errant stems, and shortened both Tonina species.
- Future Additions: Has Bucephalandra coming in to attach to wood. Still waiting on Ammannia gracilis and considering Nesaea.
- Goal: Continues to mull over changes to improve contrast, ease of care, and overall uniformity of the scape.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions Echinodorus 'Vesuvius', Tonina, Bucephalandra, Ammannia gracilis, and Nesaea.
Post #175 (18 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Posted pictures after trimming mid and background plants.
- Ideal Vision: Ideally, the green background plants would be 3–4" taller, the Rotala macrandra wall would be okay, and the colored rows in the front would be trimmed 2" lower.
Post #177 (19 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Fixture: Confirms the use of an ATI SunPower dimmable fixture.
- Dimmer Utility: States he is unsure if the dimmer affects plant growth directly.
- Key Benefit: The primary use is to synchronize with CO2 injection. The lights ramp up as CO2 ramps up (20–40 min) and ramp down before the CO2 turns off completely (20 min before lights are 100% off).
- Bulb Experimentation: Is still experimenting with a wide variety of T5 bulbs from many brands (lists ATI, URI, Wavepoint, GE, Zoo Med, Giesemann, SPS, Spectralux). Discusses how different color temperatures affect the appearance of plants and fish (e.g., red bulbs make red plants look more red, blue is good for fish).
- Dimmer Applications:
- When you cannot raise or lower the fixture to adjust intensity.
- To maintain wide light spread but reduce intensity.
- To enable the use of many bulbs for color mixing without excessive intensity.
- Opinion: Concludes that the ATI dimmable controller is superior to anything else available in the USA market.
🫧 CO2 & Flow:
- The schedule is precisely timed: CO2 and lights ramp up together over 20–40 minutes. CO2 turns off 20 minutes before the lights finish ramping down.
Post #179 (21 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Fixture Comparison: States that ATI fixtures "stomp the piss out of" Tek fixtures. Notes that Giesemann fixtures are less common in the USA, while ATI is well-established in the marine market.
- Bulb Recommendations: Likes Giesemann Aquaflora and Zoo Med plant bulbs for reds/pinks. Recommends GE Starcoat bulbs for daylight white at half the cost.
- Advice for a Hobbyist: In response to a question about using two light fixtures, suggests running them on a staggered schedule (e.g., one for 4 hours, then the other for 4 hours with a 30-minute overlap) to achieve wider spread without increasing peak intensity, thus saving energy.
📖 Important Notes:
- Makes a general comment about hobbyist spending: "Some people are cheap and some buy ADA, I'm in between."
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Post #181 (21 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Offers further advice on managing light spread with two fixtures, reiterating that staggering their operation (rather than overlapping) is key to increasing spread without increasing peak intensity.
- Suggests manually sliding a light fixture midway through the photoperiod as a simple alternative.
- Concludes that ATI lighting is "for the more hardcore plantie."
Post #182 (22 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Performed a major rescaping: uprooted Eriocaulon, all Tonina species, Ludwigia pantanal, Didiplis diandra, and other groups.
- Moved Monosolenium tenerum (Pellia) to the left side in front of Echinodorus 'Vesuvius'.
- Challenges: Needs to better manage the Rotala macrandra "stand" and find a better location for Rotala wallichii. Notes Hydrothrix melts in the back due to being shaded by other plants.
- Success: The Eriocaulon and Tonina 'lotus blossom' on the right side are now much better placed.
- Propagation: Tonina 'lotus blossom' has proven to be a much faster-growing plant for cultivation and sales than the regular Tonina, producing 3× more stems in nearly half the time.
- Future Idea: Considering replacing the Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) with Elatine triandra but needs to find a good home for the Downoi first.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The prolific growth of Tonina 'lotus blossom' is explicitly noted for its superior value in "cultivation and sales." He now has nearly 50 stems.
🟤 Substrate:
- Brags that the water cleared in less than an hour after the massive rescape, challenging others to achieve the same with ADA Aqua Soil (AS).
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants involved in the changes.
Post #184 (22 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Myth Busting (Red Plants): Provides a detailed rebuttal to the claim that red plants need more light due to less chlorophyll.
- Key Points:
- Less chlorophyll means slower growth, not a requirement for higher light.
- Points out that many ornamental red plants are actually low-light species.
- The red pigments (which mask the green) do not change the plant's fundamental needs.
- The intense reds in his tank are due to faster growth from higher light and, importantly, the use of specific bulbs that enhance red appearance through reflection.
- Conclusion: "There is no trick to red plants... Just focus on good overall care and plant growth."
- PAR Recommendation: States that 40–50 µmol at the substrate is sufficient for most plants, including red ones. Higher light just increases the demand for CO2 and maintenance.
- His Method: He manages high light by reducing intensity with a dimmer and only running full power for 4 hours. He treats red and green plants exactly the same.
📖 Important Notes:
- Advises against the "tragic search of failure" for a magic formula for red plants, emphasizing fundamentals.
Post #187 (22 Feb 2012) & #190 (22 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Explains that cloudy water in previous pictures was a direct result of him taking pictures immediately after major rescaping ("20 minutes ago I pulled up a huge amount of plant biomass").
- To demonstrate, he posts a new set of pictures the next day showing the water is "much clearer."
Post #188 (22 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Siesta Period: States that a siesta (split photoperiod) might offer a little help for plant growth in non-CO2 systems but does little to prevent algae.
- Says it is unnecessary and does nothing for CO2-enriched tanks unless CO2 enrichment is already poor.
- Light Intensity: Advises that the commenter's planned light levels (20 µmol substrate, 40 µmol surface) are too low. Recommends 30–40 µmol at the substrate as a decent starting point.
Post #196 (23 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Photo Editing: Explains his minimal photo processing: uses gamma reduction to counteract "high light wash out" and some sharpening. Attributes the vibrant colors primarily to the specific T5 bulbs used, which reflect red and blue well.
💡 Lighting:
- Reiterates that bulb choice significantly affects how plant colors are rendered in photos and to the human eye.
Post #197 (23 Feb 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Corrects a commenter's assumption that plants like Eriocaulon cinereum, Tonina fluviatilis, and Eriocaulon setaceum are difficult.
- States they are "quite easy in this tank," though notes E. setaceum and Tonina seem to prefer shallower tanks with more lighting.
Post #198 (23 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Style & Philosophy: Responds to criticism that the tank looks "artificial" and "plastic."
- Agrees, stating "the fact is, it is artificial. It's not a nature aquarium."
- Explains the Dutch style focuses on "ordered groups, contrast and divisions between the groups," which is a different goal than creating a natural-looking biotope.
- Clarifies that this tank uses "mostly Dutch style" but is not a pure Dutch scape and would do poorly in an NBAT contest. He is unsure what to call this hybrid style.
🐟 Livestock:
- Jokes about the tank being "infested with shrimp."
Post #200 (23 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Style & Philosophy: In a reply to praise, he elaborates on the tank's purpose:
- Maintenance: Claims it doesn't take long to maintain (10–20 min for foreground, 20 min for background per week), attributing this to a "slow and steady" approach without large, rapid changes.
- Goal: Describes the Dutch style as a "controlled collectoritus approach" perfect for displaying an "eclectic array of species."
- Uniqueness: Highlights the rarity of using plants like Eriocaulon setaceum Type 3, Tonina, Ludwigia "red", and Eriocaulon cinereum in aquascaping.
- Function: Values the tank as a "rotating species collection" for comparing and contrasting many species, a function Nature Aquarium style is poorly suited for.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Reveals he spends more time culling lower-grade Fire shrimp than he does trimming plants.
🐟 Livestock:
- The practice of culling shrimp for quality is reiterated.
🌱 Plants:
- Plans to replace Ludwigia peruensis with newly acquired Ammannia gracilis for its unique coloration.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The practice of culling is part of maintaining a high-quality product for sale.
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Post #201 (23 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Grants permission for his tank pictures to be used in a video podcast.
- Clarifies that the aquascape is not finished and estimates it is 3-6 months away from being complete.
Post #205 (24 Feb 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Confirms the plant on the right is Pogostemon helferi, commonly known as "Downoi".
- Growth Observation: Notes that the Downoi, recovering from being cut back to stumps 2-3 weeks prior, has grown about 3x larger in the last week. States that once it recovers fully, it is "fairly easy" to grow.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- The observation on growth rate provides insight into the plant's recovery period after a heavy trim.
Post #206 (24 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Gave away Ludwigia peruensis to a local hobbyist and planted Ammannia gracilis in its place.
- Expects it will take 1-2 months for the Ammannia to grow out, color up, and fully adapt.
🌱 Plants:
- Praises Ammannia gracilis for its "nice large leaf and ordered look" and its different shade of red compared to Ludwigia "Red".
Post #208 (24 Feb 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Non-CO2 Advice: For a non-CO2 tank, a PAR of 30-40 µmol at the substrate is a good target.
- Role of CO2: Explains that adding CO2 actually lowers a plant's Light Compensation Point (LCP). This means that with CO2 enrichment, you can use less light than in a non-CO2 tank because the plant's resources are focused on capturing light rather than struggling to capture both light and limited CO2.
📖 Important Notes:
- Provides a key physiological insight into the interaction between CO2 and light requirements.
Post #211 (26 Feb 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Planted the Ammannia gracilis and completed the move of the Ludwigia peruensis.
- Is still undecided on what to do with the Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), noting it's a nice plant that sells well.
🌱 Plants:
- Shows a picture of 8 different types of Bucephalandra ("Bun's") planted in the rear behind the wood. Notes they are small now but will look nice in a few months.
Post #212 (26 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Teaching Philosophy: Responds to praise by stating his goal is to illustrate the process of plant selection and scaping, much like Takashi Amano has promoted.
- Advice for New Hobbyists: States that the "secret" is often just pruning and experimenting to see what works in a specific location, but this must be built on a foundation of mastering the "growing basics" first.
- Personal Motivation: Finds discussing the artistic and horticultural aspects of scaping "easier and nicer" than debating the fundamental growth principles.
Post #213 (26 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Quantifies the design, stating there are 10 distinct plant "Streets" in the layout.
Post #218 (28 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Took new pictures with a Canon G12 camera.
Post #219 (28 Feb 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Long-Term Plan: Has no specific end date for the scape. Views it as a "journey vs a destination" that can continuously evolve by changing plant species and adjusting light settings.
- Scaping Philosophy: Describes himself as a "long term aquarist," not one who frequently tears down tanks. Prefers to enjoy his tanks at home and avoid the hassle and "construction zone" of constant rescapes. Finds it feasible to rotate plant species within an existing scape.
- Personal Enjoyment: Enjoys the plants most of all, specifically trying large groups of new species and developing a scape with an "eclectic" collection.
- Purpose of the Tank: A key goal is to illustrate that intense coloration can be achieved with a rich fertilization regimen (dosing more Traces and PO4 than standard EI) without needing to stress plants with low nitrogen or "fussy dosing." He positions the tank as a case study to "falsify" various claims about strict dosing regimes.
- Argumentative Strategy: Jokingly admits he is "evil" for using this successful tank as definitive evidence to "beat the snot out of anyone's argument" about plant needs.
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- Reveals he doses more Traces and PO4 than the standard Estimative Index (EI) method recommends.
Post #220 (28 Feb 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Confirms that selling plants and shrimp is a fundamental part of the tank's plan, which justifies the "eclectic array of species."
- Revenue:
- Makes an easy $100-200 per month from selling plants from this tank, a figure he expects to increase as plant groups fill in.
- Makes about $100 per month selling Fire shrimp.
- His 180-gallon tank generates about $200 per month from selling Staurogyne repens.
- Business Impact: States that generating $200-400 per month makes tank maintenance feel less like a chore and "more of a job that you love to do."
📖 Important Notes:
- The economic model provides strong motivation for consistent maintenance and high-quality horticulture.
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Post #221 (28 Feb 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Shrimp Culling Method: Uses a small round shrimp net to cull lower-grade Fire shrimp without uprooting plants.
- Frequency: Does this about 2x a week.
- Passive Culling: Notes that many shrimp end up in the overflow and sump prefilter, which also helps thin the population.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- The method of culling is designed to be minimally disruptive to the aquascape.
🌀 Filtration:
- Mentions the overflow and sump prefilter as part of the system where shrimp collect.
Post #223 (28 Feb 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Shrimp Permanence: States that shrimp are "impossible to get rid of" completely without a 100% tank breakdown and filter disinfection.
- Culling Strategy: Has "little mercy" and is rigorous about removing anything not high-grade.
- Disposition of Culls:
- Lowest Grades: Kills them and feeds them to fish.
- Mid Grades: Sells them (stored in another tank in the garage).
- Sales Method: Only sells in large lots (e.g., 50 or more) because production is too high for smaller sales.
- Advice: For effective culling and grading, recommends using bare-bottom tanks and lots of small tanks.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The sale of shrimp is a formalized business process. He sells mid-grade shrimp in large lots.
Post #225 (29 Feb 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Predator Experiments: Has tried using dwarf cichlids and loaches to control shrimp, but nothing can eradicate them as they hide too well in plants, filters, and the sump.
- Hardiness: Even after using hardcore insecticides at 4x the suggested treatment dose repeatedly, a few shrimp survived.
- Conclusion: While difficult to eradicate, the shrimp "provide some use" and are a product people buy.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Reiterates that people buy the shrimp, making them a useful product despite being a pest.
Post #226 (2 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Request: Asks for ideas for a good schooling fish that meets the following criteria:
- Will not jump out of an open-top tank.
- Will not eat shrimp.
- Will not rip up plants.
Post #230 (3 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Fish Candidates: Brainstorms potential fish species:
- Boraras brigittae
- Rummy nose tetras
- Neon tetras (but already has a tank of Cardinal tetras)
- Blue eyes
- Botia sidthimunki (Dwarf Loach)
- Theme: Is open to a Southeast Asian or African theme, as he already has an African Elephant nose fish and South American Gold Nugget plecos in the tank.
Post #232 (3 Mar 2012) & #236 (4 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Discussion: George Farmer suggests Arnoldichthys spilopterus (African Red-eyed Tetra), but plantbrain rejects them as too large.
- Top Choices: Leaning towards Rummy nose tetras or Hyphessobrycon sweglesi (Red Phantom Tetra). Prefers Red Phantoms over Serpae tetras as they are less vicious and more docile.
- Decision: George Farmer recommends Rummy nose tetras over Red Phantoms to avoid adding more red to the already red-dominated aquascape and to provide a "metallic silvery flash." plantbrain agrees with this reasoning.
📖 Important Notes:
- Fish Selection Philosophy: States he is smart enough to avoid impulse buys. Acknowledges that seeing fish at a wholesaler in a bare tank is very different from how they will behave in a planted aquarium.
Post #238 (6 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Final Decision: Agrees with George Farmer's recommendation for Rummy nose tetras.
- Challenge: Acknowledges that selecting fish often involves trial and error, and catching unsuitable fish in a 120-gallon (450L) tank is a "PITA" (Pain In The Ass).
- Self-assessment: Of his 5 tanks, he feels only one is stocked appropriately.
🧊 Tank:
- Reveals this tank is a 120-gallon (450-liter) system.
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Post #242 (7 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Replaced Fissidens moss with Subwassertang on the hardscape because the Fissidens was infested with hair algae that the shrimp couldn't fully remove.
- Plans to move Eriocaulon species to the front of the tank.
- Considering moving Eriocaulon to replace Tonina 'lotus blossom' on the left, and then moving that Tonina to replace the regular Tonina.
- Plans to thin out some Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) to make space for new Eriocaulon 'Goias'.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions specific plants involved in changes: Fissidens, Subwassertang, Eriocaulon, Tonina 'lotus blossom', Tonina fluviatilis, Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Eriocaulon 'Goias', Ammannia gracilis, Ludwigia pantanal, Ludwigia breviceps.
- Notes that Eriocaulon 'Goias' gets large (baseball-sized).
🦠 Algae:
- The reason for removing Fissidens was a persistent hair algae infestation.
Post #243 (7 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Shows a picture comparing the Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) from one month ago (raggedy) to its current state (full and healthy), demonstrating successful recovery and growth.
🌱 Plants:
- Focuses on the growth of Pogostemon helferi (Downoi).
Post #245 (8 Mar 2012) & #247 (8 Mar 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Sold the removed Eriocaulon cinereum for 3x what he paid for it.
- Plans to eventually sell the Eriocaulon 'Goias' for a profit as well (e.g., buy for $15, sell for $50), noting it propagates easily.
- This practice of buying, growing, and selling rare plants is a key part of the business model.
🌱 Plants:
- Explains that Eriocaulon 'Goias' is replacing Eriocaulon cinereum in the scape.
Post #249 (17 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Updates:
- Moved Ammannia gracilis to the rear.
- Removed Hydrothrix entirely.
- Moved Pogostemon stellatus higher up.
- Plans to add more Rotala wallichii to the background.
- Issues: Not happy with the lack of red color on the right side. Feels Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) is out of place and plans to cull smaller plants to create a more orderly row of larger specimens.
- Future Plans: Considering replacing regular Rotala macrandra with a "Japan" version.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants being managed: Ludwigia pilosa, Ludwigia inclinata 'orange', Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Eriocaulon, Monosolenium tenerum (Pellia), Fissidens, Pogostemon stellatus, Rotala wallichii, Rotala macrandra, Anubias, Bucephalandra, Tonina 'lotus blossom', Ammannia gracilis, Hydrothrix.
Post #251 (18 Mar 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Dutch Style Advice: Provides a simple explanation for creating a Dutch-style scape: find plants that contrast well in color and texture, arrange them in rows, use hardscape like driftwood to line the rows, and change things little by little until you are happy.
- Emphasizes that the design process is iterative and not overly complicated.
Post #253 (19 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans a major change for the left side of the tank, deeming it "too ordered, straight etc." Plans to rework the entire front half of the left side.
Post #254 (21 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Detailed Plan for Left Side:
- Move the front-left piece of wood.
- Trim Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) into a zigzag pattern.
- Add more Ludwigia pilosa in small rows.
- Remove Eriocaulon 'Goias' and replace it with smaller Eriocaulon species next to the UG and Downoi.
- Plant the newly opened space with a "W shaped rug" of Elatine triandra.
- Test Rotala macrandra "Japan".
- New Plants: Has new red plants coming in to test for the open left side: Persicaria 'Ruby' praetermissa, Ludwigia breviceps, and Ludwigia senegalensis. Also considers a dwarf lily or a lace plant.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- States he has gotten "much better at replanting UG" to maximize cutting sales and recovery after pruning. This is a key horticultural technique for his business model.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants involved in the complex redesign.
Post #257 (21 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Current Stock: 8 Neon Dwarf Rainbowfish (others were caught and removed), 3 Gold Nugget plecos, 5 Gnathonemus petersii (Double Trunk Elephant Nose), a few Otocinclus catfish.
- Final Decision: Has decided on Red Phantom Tetras (Hyphessobrycon sweglesi) as the main schooling fish. Rejects Serpae Tetras because they would shred shrimp, and Butterfly African Barbs as they are hard to find.
- Reasoning: The Red Phantom Tetras' behavior is suited to the tank, and their red color complements the existing "red tank with red shrimp."
Post #259 (22 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Acknowledges the finality of adding fish, noting that "it's tougher than sin to get them out if you decide you do not like them." This explains his careful and prolonged decision-making process.
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Post #261 (22 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Elephant Nose Fish: Keeps 5 total Gnathonemus petersii (Double Trunk Elephant Nose). One large one bullies the four smaller ones.
- CO2 Sensitivity: Identifies them as the most CO2-sensitive fish commonly kept in planted tanks. States that many nice-looking scaped tanks don't have challenging fish like this because their owners are "good at plants, lousy at CO2/keeping fish" and gas them.
- Authenticity: Values having fish in the tank long-term for documentation, not just adding them at the end for a pretty picture.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Reiterates that high CO2 levels are lethal to many fish species and that Elephant Noses are a key indicator of this.
Post #262 (22 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Moved Eriocaulon and planted three triangular patches of Elatine triandra.
- Considering using Staurogyne 'purple' as a border between Hydrocotyle verticillata (Pennwort) and Tonina.
🌱 Plants:
- Shows pictures demonstrating how plants acclimate and improve in color after 5 days in his tank compared to their state from the seller.
🐟 Livestock:
- Includes a picture of one of the small Elephant Nose fish.
Post #263 (25 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Removed and sold some Pogostemon helferi (Downoi).
- Thinned out Ludwigia pantanal.
- Added Persicaria 'Ruby' to the rear corner.
- Plans to sell the Eriocaulon 'Goias' as he needs a darker plant for that spot.
- Will keep Staurogyne 'purple' on the far right for contrast.
- Still searching for a nice low-growing red plant. May move Hygrophila 'araguaia' from the rear corner.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The sale of Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) and planned sale of Eriocaulon 'Goias' are noted.
🌱 Plants:
- Lists plants involved in changes.
Post #264 (26 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Brainstorms adding Monosolenium tenerum (Mini Pellia) and bringing Fissidens moss back into the scape.
🌱 Plants:
- Mentions Monosolenium tenerum (Mini Pellia) and Fissidens.
Post #267 (27 Mar 2012):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- In response to a question about Excel, states that Fissidens and Monosolenium tenerum (Pellia) should respond well to Seachem Excel after a period of adaptation, as "all plants do near as I can tell."
Post #268 (27 Mar 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Went to buy the planned Red Phantom Tetras but found they all had ich (white spot disease), so the purchase is delayed for a couple of weeks.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Refers to the tank as a "money earner" and states that "a good farm should certainly pay for itself."
Post #270 (28 Mar 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans for Left Side:
- Will use Acmella repens (a green plant) like old-school Dutch aquascapers use Lizard Tail, arranging it in a zigzag line once it grows out more.
- Plans to replace Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) with a darker rosette plant like Eriocaulon 'Kimberley'.
- Allowed Elatine triandra on the right to fill in more.
- Will test Rotala 'sunset' and Ludwigia senegalensis in an open section.
- Water is murky due to recent uprooting.
🌱 Plants:
- Lists the new plants being tested: Acmella repens, Eriocaulon 'Kimberley', Rotala 'sunset', Ludwigia senegalensis.
🐟 Livestock:
- Posts a picture of shrimp swarming on a new piece of mossy wood.
Post #272 (28 Mar 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- States his light intensity is about 6 times higher than another hobbyist's (Faizal's) 120-gallon tank.
- Notes he started with lower light and can dial it back with the dimmer if he becomes less interested in intensive gardening.
Post #275 (30 Mar 2012) & #276 (30 Mar 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Explains that measured CO2 values (e.g., 70 ppm in his 180g vs. 45-55 ppm in this tank) depend on the rate of CO2 addition and degassing in each specific system.
- Important Note: warns that assuming a high CO2 level that works in one tank will be non-limiting in all aquaria is a mistake. This explains why some tanks still get algae even when CO2 "seems good" compared to another.
- Goal: His CO2 is set to be "enough not to get algae, not enough to kill or stress fish, enough to provide nice lush growth" at his chosen light intensity.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- New Plants: Acquired Ludwigia inclinata 'red' and is using Acmella repens as a substitute for Lizard Tail.
- UG Replanting Method: Touts his new method for replanting Utricularia graminifolia (UG), which achieves full carpeting in 2 weeks compared to the 6-8 weeks it took with his old method.
- Space Issue: Feels the tank is about 3-5 inches too short to fill out the plant rows as thickly and nicely as he would like.
- Final Decision: Still deciding between keeping Acmella repens or Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) for a specific foreground spot.
🌱 Plants:
- Details on Ludwigia inclinata 'red' (grows quickly, responds well to trimming, provides great contrast), Acmella repens, Eriocaulon 'aussie type 2', Ludwigia pilosa (becoming blotchy red, has 6-8 plantlets), Rotala 'sunset'.
Post #278 (30 Mar 2012) & #280 (1 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- UG Replanting Technique (Detailed):
- Uses dense 2 cm plugs from an old mat.
- Uses a "screw-like method" to insert them close together from one side to the other.
- Results in a seamless carpet in 2-3 weeks.
- This new method is 3-4 times faster than his old method and uses more plant material to achieve the quick result.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The new UG method is not only faster but also produces "extra to sell afterwards" compared to the old method which just produced floating leaves.
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Post #282 (3 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Performed a trim followed by a large water change.
- Added a new plant, Elatine hydropiper ("micro" Gloss), to the scape.
- Notes that the existing Elatine triandra has filled in well and will form a bright green carpet.
💧 Water-changes:
- The water change process takes about 35 minutes, which includes time to clean the prefilter, catch shrimp, and perform other small maintenance tasks.
🌱 Plants:
- Focuses on the growth and addition of carpeting plants: Elatine hydropiper and Elatine triandra.
Post #283 (6 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Expanded the Elatine hydropiper, which significantly improved the look of the left side.
- Reintroduced a few scraggly remnants of Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) to a spot to let it regrow.
- Expanded Ludwigia inclinata in a "nice 1/2 circle arc," as it grows rapidly and is easy to work with.
- Attached more Fissidens moss to a branch to add balance.
- Feels he is getting close to having a "semi complete scape," after which it will just need trimming and tidying.
🌱 Plants:
- Plans to test Bacopa lanigera in one of two spots for its bright white-green (glaucous) and hairy leaves, which would provide contrast.
- Mentions specific plants: Elatine hydropiper, Pogostemon helferi (Downoi), Ludwigia inclinata, Bacopa lanigera, Fissidens.
Post #285 (6 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- A brief note acknowledging the balance between making changes and allowing the scape to develop fully.
Post #289 (7 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- In response to a request for macro photos, confirms he has professional camera equipment (Canon L series lenses, macro flash) but rarely uses it for aquarium shots, preferring it for nature photography.
- States his primary focus is on the "larger color scheme" of the entire tank.
Post #290 (7 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Update: The Ludwigia inclinata on the left is developing well and should be where he wants it in another 2 weeks.
- New Carpet: The newly planted Elatine hydropiper will need about 2 weeks to show how it adapts to the tank's temperature (26°C).
- Future Options: Brainstorms using "mini" Eriocaulon cinereum as an alternative carpet if the Elatine doesn't work out.
- Downoi Plan: The small, scraggy Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) plants are expected to grow into a valuable group worth ~$80 in 2 months, as happened before.
- Bacopa Decision: Deciding whether to place the incoming Bacopa lanigera with the Downoi or in the rear left for contrast with the red and orange Ludwigia.
- Right Side Plan: Will let Staurogyne 'purple' grow out to create a division between it and the similarly colored Tonina 'lotus blossom'.
- Hardscape: Plans to use Monosolenium tenerum (Mini Pellia) on wood or as a barrier between bright green foreground plants.
- Background: Will reposition Bolbitis to wrap around the wood; expects Myriophyllum matogrossense to fill in the background densely within 1–2 weeks.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive list of plants being managed and planned.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Explicitly notes the expected future value ($80) of the current small Downoi plants.
Post #293 (7 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Briefly compares his cameras, noting the Canon G12 is good for macros, while he uses the professional Canon 5D mkII sparingly.
Post #294 (8 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Posted pictures after moving things around, noting the water is cloudy as a result.
- Describes the expected growth habit of Bacopa lanigera: it will straighten up, become larger, and turn whitish.
🌱 Plants:
- Focus on Bacopa lanigera.
Post #298 (10 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Scaping Philosophy: Jokingly responds to the tank being called "Alien Surreal" by calling it a "Produce stand" with a "wall of apples, oranges and tomatoes."
- Style Inspiration: Acknowledges the similarity to colorful reef aquariums and some Dutch tanks that stack bright colors.
- Original Goal: The tank was intended to be a bright, showy stem plant tank to balance out the "cooler simpler designs" he often prefers and that his clients request.
- Contrast with Other Tank: Contrasts this high-maintenance, planned tank with his 70-gallon "manzi" scape, which has a unique hardscape that was set up very quickly (~10 minutes).
- Overarching Purpose: Both tanks are designed to provide happiness and generate profit from plant and livestock sales.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Refers to his hobby as "Farming." States that his aquatic plants are worth more per dry weight than marijuana (noting its legal status in California).
- Reiterates that profit from sales is a key motivation and outcome.
🐟 Livestock:
- Mentions shrimp and fish as part of his "livestock" farming.
Post #299 (12 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Notes that new plant growth is coming in faster than anticipated.
- Specifically highlights the growth of the Elatine triandra carpet, which has filled in nicely in just over 3 weeks.
🌱 Plants:
- Focus on the rapid growth of Elatine triandra.
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Post #301 (12 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- One user (Antipofish) asks for the names of all plants in a picture.
- His request remains unanswered at first, with reference to the fact that the plants and/or their placement in the aquarium are constantly changing.
Post #304 (12 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Foreground: UG (Utricularia graminifolia), Fissidens sp., Eriocaulon triandra (mat), Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides, Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi"), Staurogyne sp. ("Purple").
- Mid/Background: Ludwigia inclinata, Bacopa lanigera, Eusteralis hydropiper ("E. hydro piper"), Ludwigia sp. ("Red"), Eriocaulon setaceum ("Type 3"), Ludwigia verticillata 'Pantanal', Tonina sp. ("lotus blossom"), Ludwigia peruensis, Echinodorus augustifolius 'Vesuvius'.
Post #305 (14 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Notes extremely impressive growth of Elatine triandra over 3 weeks.
- States that Eusteralis hydropiper is growing in nicely and will form a solid carpet ("rug") soon.
- Is excited about it as a new alternative to Hemianthus callitrichoides (HC) and confirms it grows well in warmer temperatures, contrary to some reports.
📖 Important Notes:
- Shares an observation that challenges a common belief (that E. hydropiper is a cold-water-only plant).
Post #308 (16 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Ludwigia inclinata: 2–4 leaves per node, sort of pink, far left.
- L. inclinata verticillata 'Pantanal': More cherry red, semi-middle.
- Ludwigia pilosa: Far left, round leaves, many leaves per node.
Post #309 (16 Apr 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Cut sod from Elatine patches.
- Sold E. triandra for $90 and E. hydropiper for $50.
- Notes this is good profit for 3 weeks of growth.
- Prefers sod cutting for sales but notes E. triandra can be mowed like Glossostigma.
Post #311 (17 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Describes the "sod cutting" method: cutting the edges of a plant mat with a plastic paint scraper and gently pulling up the entire mat to roll it for sale.
- This leaves the remainder intact to regrow.
- Describes it as working well for "foreground weeds."
Post #313 (18 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Clarifies that ADA Aqua Soil (ADA AS) is shaken loose from the plant roots during harvesting; it is not sold with the plants.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- States that plant sales from the last 2–3 weeks totaled $150–$200 (not including other species).
- Describes the tank as a profitable farm that also maintains good aesthetics and is constantly changing.
Post #315 (19 Apr 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Uses a 10lb (~4kg) CO2 tank that lasts 4–5 months.
- Measures injection rate with a mass flow controller (e.g., Alicat), not bubbles per second, which is deemed inaccurate.
📖 Important Notes:
- Outlines the multidimensional goals of the tank:
- A profitable farm that must also look good, balancing harvest methods with aesthetics.
- The overall scape and aesthetics.
- Livestock (Fire shrimp, high-grade CRS) for aesthetics and profit (~$100/month).
- Contrast and texture in the scape.
- A testing ground for new trim methods and plant species.
- Balancing rare, high-selling plants with easy-care plants, removing "weedy" species if a better replacement is found.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Emphasizes that very few scapes perform well as both a sales farm and an aesthetic display.
- Attributes success to risk-taking and 20 years of experience.
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- References the Estimative Index (EI) method, challenging critics by comparing their results to his own successful system.
- Notes that fertilization is a "relatively minor aspect" compared to light and CO2, yet it is the topic he gets the most questions about.
💡 🫧 Lighting & CO2:
- States that the primary reasons for success are light and CO2.
Post #318 (19 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- States his method has been developed over 20 years by testing hypotheses, exploring risk, toxicity, and algae control.
- Shares a picture of his tank from 20 years prior.
Post #319 (19 Apr 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Provides specific annual earnings:
- ~$3000 USD from selling plants ("weeds") from 4 tanks.
- ~$1000 USD from selling fish/shrimp.
- Notes that over 5 years, the cost of the tank and equipment is paid for, despite ongoing costs for electricity and labor.
Post #320 (19 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- In response to being called the "best example of a high-energy system," suggests that the success may be due to "the aquarist, not the method."
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Post #323 (20 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Argues for a scientific, hypothesis-testing approach over anecdotal evidence.
- Uses the Estimative Index (EI) method as a non-limiting reference to remove nutrient dependency, allowing him to focus on and test other variables like light and CO2.
- Criticizes the common practice of blaming nutrients first without proper control of other factors.
- States that CO2 is the most common culprit when things go wrong, regardless of the dosing method used.
Post #324 (23 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Describes a major rescape: moving plants, removing "weedy" species, and planning new layouts.
🌱 Plants:
- Removed: Rotala macrandra and Bacopa lanigera (deemed "weedy" and poor sellers).
- Moved: Ludwigia sp. "Red" to the rear.
- Observations:
- Utricularia graminifolia (UG) is extremely dense.
- Rotala "sunset" is stunted, with leaves half their previous length; hypothesizes this is due to CO2/light issues.
- Value Notes:
- Ludwigia pilosa is a slow grower worth 15x more than Ludwigia "red".
- Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi") is recovering well from small leftovers.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Removes species that "no one seemed to buy or keep for a reasonable $" and that can be bought cheaply elsewhere.
📖 Important Notes:
- Reiterates that good CO2 can be improved immediately, while expensive hardware upgrades (like an ATI light) may not be feasible for everyone.
Post #328 (25 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Disputes the idea of mere "green fingers," emphasizing that success is based on concepts and the reduction of myths.
- Contrasts his approach of teaching general concepts (how and why things work) with companies that only sell their specific brand and products (e.g., ADA) without explaining the underlying principles.
Post #329 (25 Apr 2012):
🌀 Filtration:
- Describes his sump filter's function in detail. Explains it is "selective":
- It adds Oxygen (O2) by exchanging low-O2 water with air.
- It conserves Carbon Dioxide (CO2) by allowing degassed CO2 to be re-dissolved under the bubble trap plate before being pumped back to the tank.
- Attributes a significant role to the protein skimmer pre-filter.
- States this setup yields 1–2 ppm more O2 than a canister filter with the same flow and surface agitation.
Post #330 (26 Apr 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- "Hacked a sod" out of the UG carpet, tucking the edges back in for later replanting.
- Describes tying Mini Pellia (Riccardia chamedryfolia) to wood as a "PITA" (Pain In The Ass) compared to Fissidens.
🌱 Plants:
- Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi") has recovered and grown large quickly.
- Ludwigia inclinata grows at a "break neck pace" requiring aggressive trimming.
- Ludwigia pilosa has reddened up more than expected.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Plans to sell Ludwigia peruensis and some Eusteralis hydropiper.
Post #334 (26 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Distills the key factors for success down to a simple hierarchy:
- Dosing (Fertilization) is simple.
- Substrate (ADA Aqua Soil) is generally good.
- Light is generally manageable.
- This leaves CO2. Implies that CO2 is the most critical and challenging variable to master, especially for achieving red colors in plants, not light type (LEDs) or nutrient limitation.
Post #336 (27 Apr 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Rejects the notion that his success is smug or inexplicable.
- Reiterates that he freely shares information, but the main barrier for others is often mastering CO2 or being distracted by concerns that don't truly matter.
Post #338 (27 Apr 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- CO2 injection is on for 7–7.5 hours per day.
Post #340 (28 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Identifies Low Carbonate Hardness (KH) as the "key" to growing UG successfully.
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing & Physico-Chemical Parameters of Water:
- States that General Hardness (GH) can be high and is not an issue.
- Notes his tap water has low alkalinity (~20 ppm CaCO₃, or just over 1 dKH).
- Lists other cities (San Francisco, New York City, Seattle) with similarly suitable water.
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Post #344 (29 Apr 2012):
💧 Water-changes:
- Recommends a 50 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO unit, two large trash cans, and a small pump for water changes.
🧪 Fertilization/dosing:
- Advises a water mix of 1/3 tap water to 2/3 RO water to achieve the desired soft water parameters.
Post #346 (29 Apr 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- States that Rotala macrandra does not do well in hard water (high KH). Assures that there are still 200–300 other species that are not sensitive to higher KH values.
Post #347 (30 Apr 2012):
💰 Sales & business model:
- Harvested about $100 worth of Utricularia graminifolia (UG), noting that this yields about $150 every 2–3 months.
🌱 Plants:
- Observations: Rotala "sunset" leaves are getting larger and wider. Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi") has grown significantly from small scraps and is now valuable.
- Planning: Plans to move Rotala "sunset" to the middle row and Ludwigia inclinata to the rear. Will allow the Downoi to fill in its area. Notes Ludwigia pilosa is doing well and reddening up.
🐟 Livestock:
- Mentions adding new fish (species not specified in this post).
Post #354 (2 May 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- States that Amano shrimp and Cherry (Red) shrimp get along fine, though predation might occur in a bare, underfed tank. Jokes that Cherry shrimp "are that which cannot die."
📖 Important notes:
- Explains that this tank is an "experimental test tank" and that moving things around is essential for learning. Contrasts it with his stable 180-gallon tank. This justifies the constant changes and sales.
Post #356 (3 May 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- States that his single-outlet system provides adequate flow and distribution, referring to a video of his 180-gallon tank as an example.
🌀 Filtration:
- Recommends Eheim canister filters as a good choice, contrasting them with more expensive options like the ADA Super Jet. Acknowledges that a sump is a better choice but understands the space and noise constraints that make a canister filter preferable.
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Post #361 (4 May 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Explains that high flow and efficient filtration (gas exchange) raise the effective "CO2 ceiling."
- This allows for much higher CO2 concentrations (e.g., up to 60 ppm) without harming livestock because Oxygen (O2) levels are also significantly higher (15–30% more).
- States that solving plant issues is not just about turning the CO2 knob up; other factors are involved.
🌀 Filtration:
- Implicitly credits the sump/filter design for enabling this efficient gas exchange.
Post #363 (5 May 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Advises against making extreme, rapid adjustments to light and CO2.
- Recommends a "slow and steady" approach, making changes and then being present to observe the effects before making further adjustments.
Post #364 (6 May 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to add more Utricularia graminifolia (UG) to a bare spot.
- Describes the first harvest of Eusteralis hydropiper, noting its very dense root mat which makes it stay rooted better than similar plants like HC or Glossostigma.
🌱 Plants:
- Observations: Likes the color of Rotala "sunset" and plans to grow it as a thicket because it's a good seller and less "weedy" than Ludwigia inclinata.
- New Additions/Testing: Testing a new variety of Alternanthera cardinalis to see if it performs better in high light than the typical A. reineckii, which prefers lower light. Also testing Nesaea pedicillata (normal type) and some unidentified Eriocaulon (Erio) broadleaf species.
- Removals: Removed most of the Fissidens moss because it was a trap for detritus and algae; replaced it with Riccardia chamedryfolia (Mini Pellia) which works better.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Notes that Rotala "sunset" is a plant "folks will actually buy."
Post #366 (10 May 2012):
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing & Physico-Chemical Parameters of Water:
- Reports on the temperature tolerance of a plant (likely E. hydropiper based on context).
- It was fine at 82°F, started to brown out at 88–90°F, suggesting a thermal limit around 84–86°F.
Post #368 (12 May 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Confirms that factors beyond just CO2 include high filter turnover rate, good flow/distribution, good tank husbandry, and in some cases, temperature being too high.
Post #371 (25 May 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Provides a detailed plant list from left to right in the foreground/midground, including: Utricularia graminifolia (UG), Ammannia gracilis, Eriocaulon cinereum, Fissidens moss, Tonina sp. "Lotus blossom", Ludwigia sp. "red", Eriocaulon setaceum "Type 3", Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi"), Ludwigia verticillata 'Pantanal', Tonina sp. (normal type), Ludwigia peruensis, and Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides.
Post #372 (25 May 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Shows Rotala "sunset" and notes it was collected by a local plant club in the Eastern USA.
Post #373 (27 May 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Describes a major rescape: removed many plants from the rear, removed Eriocaulon setaceum "Type 3" and "Type 1" because they "do not like to be crowded."
- Replaced them with Hydrothrix gardneri which "gardens better over time."
🌱 Plants:
- Removals: Eriocaulon types, some Tonina.
- New Additions/Testing: Added Rotala mexicana (likely green type), Cuphea sp., Bacopa "araguaia", Syngonanthus uaupes, and considering more Syngonanthus species.
- Plans to keep Tonina "lotus blossom" and potentially add back Eriocaulon "aussie type II".
- Observations: The new Alternanthera cardinalis variety is doing well under high light, while A. reineckii and Nesaea pedicillata do better when shaded. Utricularia graminifolia (UG) is recovering from algae issues.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Sold a linear strip of E. hydropiper sod.
Post #374 (31 May 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Removed Eriocaulon setaceum "Type 3" and plans to use more Syngonanthus species.
Post #376 (1 Jun 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Planning: Plans to rearrange the color scheme in the back. Considering using Alternanthera cardinalis or Cuphea sp. behind the Tonina. Plans to add more Syngonanthus belem to the rear and remove remaining Eriocaulon setaceum.
- Options for Rear: Considering Rotala wallichii or Myriophyllum tuberculatum (preferred for its red-copper color and easier management), and Rotala mexicana for the left back corner.
- Options for Midground: Considering replacing Echinodorus 'Vesuvius' with Ludwigia pantanal "twisty".
📖 Important Notes:
- Provides reasoning for plant choices based on aesthetics (color), manageability (ease of trimming), and growth habit.
Post #377 (1 Jun 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Explains that the tank's multiple goals (farm, testing, display) mean it is rarely at a static "peak" state.
- Also, the tank's shape and design lend themselves better to viewing specific angles rather than a Full Tank Shot (FTS).
- Expresses a preference for long-term gardening and constant change over setting up a static scape and then tearing it down.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Reiterates the tank's role as a plant testing ground and farm.
Post #379 (22 Jun 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Swapped out Red Phantom Tetras for Rummynose Tetras, stating the latter are "FAR better suited to this display" and are "a very good fit."
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Post #381 (27 Jun 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Clarifies that "Red Phantoms" are different from Serpae Tetras (Hyphessobrycon eques), noting they have different behavior, are less aggressive, school better, and are "nicer fish."
Post #383 (3 Jul 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Declares Rummynose Tetras (Hemigrammus rhodostomus) as "the best fish yet for the scape" and "a very good match."
Post #386 (23 Jul 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Planning: Plans to add more Bucephalandra (Buce's) to the rear left. Plans to move Elatine triandra, Hydrothrix gardneri (H araguaia), and add back Rotala macrandra and Rotala wallichii to the rear.
- Considering for Removal/Relocation: Ludwigia "Tornado" (planning to move it to the back to replace Proserpinaca stellata).
- Considering for New Additions: Bacopa salzmannii (for purple color), Eriocaulon setaceum "Type 3", other prostrate Eriocaulon species, or Ludwigia pilosa.
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Notes that the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) carpet needs to fill in.
Post #388 (19 Aug 2012):
📖 Important Notes:
- Comments on the Dutch aquascaping style.
- States that his tank has some Dutch elements (grouping, contrast) but is far from a strict, competition-level Dutch style.
- Emphasizes that he does not consciously design for a specific style (e.g., Iwagumi) but instead focuses on a loose plan, giving more deliberate thought to terrestrial landscaping and bonsai.
Post #389 (29 Sep 2012):
🦠 Algae:
- Reports a flair-up of Black Brush Algae (BBA) and an aggressive green hair algae bloom caused by a purposeful reduction in CO2 (which raised pH by 0.3).
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Treated the tank with API Algae Fix.
Results of Treatment:
- On Algae: Effectively killed problem hair algae species (Rhizoclonium, Spirogyra, Vaucheria, Cladophora) and Green Dust Algae (GDA). Believes it does not kill diatoms, BBA, or Blue-Green Algae (BGA/Cyanobacteria).
- On Plants: Zero damage to all plant species.
- On Livestock: Fish were fine. The treatment failed to kill all low-grade Fire Shrimp (killed many but not 100%), which is attributed to the soil and bacteria in the planted tank breaking down the active ingredient faster than in bare tanks.
📖 Important Notes:
- Suggests this product could be a useful selective treatment for hair algae in shrimp tanks, as it's not 100% lethal to shrimp and doesn't harm plants.
- Provides alternative solutions for other algae: Ottos/Plecos for diatoms, CO2/Excel spot treatment for BBA, and blackouts + nitrate for BGA.
🐟 Livestock:
- First mention of a significant problem: Rummynose Tetras were attacking and decimating the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) carpet. They have been removed from the tank.
Post #390 (3 Oct 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Shows pictures proving the rapid and significant recovery of the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) carpet in the second week after the plant-eating Rummynose Tetras were removed.
🐟 Livestock:
- Confirms that the Rummynose Tetras were the cause of the UG damage.
Post #392 (3 Oct 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Does not use a needle-wheel (NW) pump.
- Injects CO2 gas directly into the intake of the unmodified return pump.
- The return line is 1.5 meters long, which helps dissolve the CO2.
- Notes this creates a mist that is annoying in his 70-gallon tank but not in this one.
Post #395 (4 Oct 2012):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- The return pump has a flow rate of 700–800 gallons per hour (GPH), achieving ~8x tank volume turnover per hour.
- Describes the flow pattern: water shoots from the return across the top, down the opposite corner, meanders through the plants, and back to the overflow.
Post #398 (5 Oct 2012):
💡 Lighting:
- Upgraded from a Tek light fixture to a ATI fixture with a dimmer/computer.
- Praises the new light, stating it provides 50% more light and has smooth, programmable dimming control.
- Notes that using different bulb combinations yields much nicer coloration and reflection.
Post #400 (7 Oct 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Recovery: Again highlights the dramatic recovery of the Utricularia graminifolia (UG) carpet now that the Rummynose Tetras are gone.
- Re-introductions: Adding back Rotala "sunset" and Bucephalandra (Buce's).
- Planning: Pondering what to do with Eriocaulon species, extra Buce's, and Helanthium tenellum 'Red' in the right corner. Considering creating a hardscape border with wood and moss/Riccardia. Leaning towards using Buce's.
- Considering for Removal: Blyxa 'Kimerly' (will get too large).
- Observations: Pogostemon helferi ("Downoi") does extremely well on one side. Ludwigia senegalensis grows well but lacks contrast. Ludwigia pilosa is in a good spot and will be kept.
- Considering for New Additions: Might bring back Myriophyllum tuberculatum for its copper color and fine leaves.
🐟 Livestock:
- Conclusively identifies Rummynose Tetras as the cause of the previous UG damage, stating "there is simply no denying" it.
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The author continues reshaping the aquascape: UG is moved and spread as a foreground carpet, Elatine hydropiper is attempted, and Ludwigia sphaerocarpa (formerly misidentified as L. pilosa) is given its own row. Various species are rotated, and the author plans a video shoot, more ADA soil for Downoi, and a Dutch-style 15° trimming slope.
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Post #391 (22 Oct 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to move Utricularia graminifolia (UG) to the far left and add Elatine hydropiper in its previous spot.
- Removed Hygrophila pinnatifida ("H 'pinnifata'").
- Added a Bolbitis short-leaf form, testing whether it stays small (5–6 inch range).
🌱 Plants:
- Notes Ludwigia "pilosa" (old, incorrect name) is doing very well and has only recently started to grow straighter.
- Mentions adding moss and a red plant for the far-right corner.
Post #392 (22 Oct 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Rotala 'magenta' is doing well with nice color and positioning.
- Tonina growing emersed has recently started branching heavily.
Post #393 (6 Nov 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Spread Utricularia graminifolia (UG) out as the main foreground theme. The Elatine hydropiper order arrived "in mush" — will try again.
- Gave Ludwigia sphaerocarpa (correcting the old name L. pilosa) its own row flanked by UG on both sides.
- Expanding Ludwigia 'Tornado' and moving other species. Removed Rotala 'sunset' to the 180 gallon tank permanently.
- Removed Bucephalandra temporarily into emergent culture; will add back later.
🌱 Plants:
- Rotala 'vietnam' is growing at a "break neck pace" — possibly too fast for this tank, but keeps coming back despite attempts to remove it.
- A white Anubias has doubled in size over the last month.
- Returned 3 Fissidens-covered branches. Also working with Ludwigia senegalensis.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Plans to offer the white Anubias first to a friend from 10–12 years ago.
Post #395 (7 Nov 2012):
🌀 Filtration:
- Uses a $12 peristaltic pump (a cheaper alternative) to maintain siphon in the overflow.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Fissidens moss serves dual purpose (aesthetics + farm): sells for about $15 per golf-ball-sized portion.
Post #396 (14 Nov 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- UG is starting to take and fill in. Plans to add Fissidens to the wood next to L. sphaerocarpa for contrast.
- Will fill in Ludwigia 'Tornado' more in the rear. Rotala 'vietnam' in the right corner will contrast with R. wallichii.
- Expects L. senegalensis to become a "massive sight" in 1–2 weeks.
- L. sphaerocarpa is a fast, well-behaved grower, easy to propagate.
🌱 Plants:
- Syngonanthus 'belem' is a decent plant in the rear, but may try something else.
- Rotala 'sunset' now permanently in the 180 gallon tank.
🐟 Livestock:
- Notes the need to add more fish.
Post #397 (18 Nov 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Will try Rotala macrandra in an empty corner spot. On the opposite corner, will remove R. wallichii and allow Rotala 'vietnam' to take over.
- UG Growth Pattern: UG tends to grow up, then look a bit ratty, then after minor trimming forms a dense rug. Advises patience during the "ratty" phase — most people misdiagnose this as poor health.
🌱 Plants:
- UG still filling in and rooting — expects a nice dense rug in 3–4 weeks.
Post #403 (2 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to shoot a video before Christmas.
- Wants to add proper schooling fish and more shrimp before filming.
🟤 Substrate:
- Plans to add more ADA Aqua Soil to raise the Pogostemon helferi (Downoi) for better viewing and to create a better front-to-back slope.
🐟 Livestock:
- New plants incoming from Asia this week.
📖 Important Notes:
- One of the original goals was classic Dutch trimming with a 15° slope from front to rear. Has done this a little but not focused on it yet — plans to for the video/photo shoot.
Post #404 (2 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Replanted some UG, hacked Ludwigia pantanal and Tonina, and significantly expanded Ludwigia senegalensis to fill a large space.
- Moved Syngonanthus 'belem' to the rear corner.
- Not happy with L. sphaerocarpa color — needs a stronger shade of red. Will likely move it to mid-rear or left corner and find a better contrast plant for that spot.
- Rear left corner needs work on color and texture composition.
🌱 Plants:
- Bucephalandra will stay as understory plants in the shaded region — the author wants to still be able to see them.
- Plans to find twisty wood to elevate the Buce's, then add a bright red large-leaf or green thick bunch plant behind them.
- Monosolenium (Mini Pellia) needs a home — darker color against UG will look good in the corner.
🟤 Substrate:
- Needs to add more ADA soil to "fluff up" the Downoi and make replanting easier in several rows.
🦠 Algae:
- UG close-up shows old original leaves with algae buried deep, but all newer growth is clean — achieved without algae eaters like Amano shrimp. The author sometimes runs high-light tanks without significant algae eaters as an experiment.
Post #406 (5 Dec 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- Removed Blue tetras (impulse buy — "meaner than a Manx"). The real plan is Boraras brigittae.
- Added about 30 Botia sidthimunki (Dwarf Chain Loach), ~100 White-back shrimp, and ~100 Amano shrimp.
- Remaining livestock: Double Trunk Elephant nose, Gold Nugget plecos, Fire shrimp, plus a few Pencil fish and one Red Phantom tetra still uncatchable.
Post #408 (5 Dec 2012):
🐟 Livestock:
- States that Botia sidthimunki have never bothered shrimp — he has kept them for years and they did not even bother Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS).
Page 22
UG carpet matures and lays flat on its own without trimming; the author identifies Ludwigia sphaerocarpa as a USA native and provides a detailed price list for his plant sales ($200–600/month). He also tests Rotala macrandra on the high-current left side and plans to expand Downoi paths.
Show details #22 …
Post #410 (11 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- UG Growth Behavior: Once UG fills in densely, the top greener leaves flop over as the mat becomes denser — it stays short on its own, without trimming. Most people never achieve this density. Only errant runners need minor trimming.
- Other plants are coming along; estimates another 1–2 months before the tank is in "full bloom."
- Will add more Fissidens moss to branches and tie Monosolenium (Mini Pellia) to branches in the rear. Some rear-left corner plants need more grow-in time.
🌱 Plants:
- UG carpet finally filling in and laying flatter. Addresses concerns about yellow coloration — explains this is a normal stage before the mat densifies.
Post #411 (12 Dec 2012):
🌱 Plants:
- Ludwigia sphaerocarpa is identified as a USA native plant, brought into the hobby by Cavan and the GWAPA group on the East Coast.
- It is similar to L. peruensis/glandulosa but has a different leaf shape and color, and is easier to grow (at least for the author).
- The author is promoting this plant and plans to send it to Tropica and to a UK contact.
🐟 Livestock:
- Botia sidthimunki are tiny now but will grow 3–4× larger over the next months/years. Calls them "one of the best all around fish for the FW aquarist."
📖 Important Notes:
- "Most of my tanks appear 'small', till you see them in person. I set my tanks up for the people that live around them, no one else."
Post #412 (12 Dec 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Detailed price list:
- Tonina: ~$40 for 6 stems
- Ludwigia 'Tornado': ~$45 for 6 stems
- Utricularia graminifolia (UG): $40 for a 5 cm × 5 cm rug (sells in a couple of hours)
- Ludwigia pantanal: $30 for 6 nice stems
- Staurogyne repens (from 180g): $25 for 20+ plants
- Eleocharis 'belem' (Belem hair grass): $35 for a 5 cm × 25 cm sod
- Monthly Revenue: $200 on a weak month, $500–600 on a good month. Notes he makes more than competition prize money, every year. The tank and others have paid for themselves "a few times over."
- Spending on special plants, lights, or CO₂ regulators is justified because the sales pay for it. "My time is free, but it's therapeutic also."
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Pruning = $ — sells cuttings, focusing on rarer, harder-to-find species.
- Trims some rows and patches; some species stay in the same spot with only topping/replanting tips to thicken groups.
- Trims most plants about once every 2 months, with 10–15 min of detail work removing decay with scissors or fingers. Has a few-day window before things get "ratty."
💧 Water-changes:
- Performs large water changes 1–2× per week. While the tank drains/refills, cleans the filter, trims, and nets shrimp out of the overflow box.
Post #416 (12 Dec 2012):
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Noting UK market rates of £20/stem for L. sphaerocarpa, the author estimates he has 300–400 pounds worth by those rates.
- Plans to ship about 10 stems to the UK.
- Philosophy: a nice picture in a nice scape sells plants better than any amount of talk.
🌱 Plants:
- Some hobbyists have had trouble growing L. sphaerocarpa, but the author thrives with it and can scape effectively with it.
Post #418 (24 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to remove some UG where the Downoi is and expand the Downoi area to break up the continuous UG line in the front — wants a wide path narrowing toward the back.
- Tests Rotala macrandra on the left side for the first time to see how it handles the higher current in that area.
- Ludwigia 'Tornado' looks nice from above and contrasts well when dense enough.
🌱 Plants:
- Recently replanted some UG. Shows the new Rotala macrandra in lower left — very mauve colored, described as a "freaky color" typical in very high light tanks. Most seek a more blood-red or cherry-red color.
💡 Lighting:
- The mauve coloration of R. macrandra is attributed to the very high light in this tank.
Page 23
The author refines his propagation technique for Ludwigia 'Tornado', concedes UG is not viable as a long-term foreground carpet, and continues his search for the perfect red row plant. The tank proves "very touchy about CO₂" due to extremely high light. Monte Carlo becomes a new foreground staple, Mini Pellia replaces Fissidens, and new species like L. gigantea and Hygrophila 'Chai' are tested.
Show details #23 …
Post #421 (28 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Ludwigia 'Tornado' Propagation: Initially did not like the plant as much as expected until figuring out how to make it denser. Describes the method: replant tops a few times, use the stumps to sprout new side shoots — after a "couple of rounds," achieves a nice, thick bunch of healthy, larger stems.
- After the group is established: sells the nicer tops and saves side shoots and lower portions to refill.
- Notes the plant grows slower at first.
🌱 Plants:
- Focus on propagation and sales of Ludwigia 'Tornado'.
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The propagation cycle is designed to maximize both aesthetics (dense groups) and sales (nicer tops).
Post #423 (28 Dec 2012):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- UG Verdict: UG has piled up and grown too aggressively — it is not viable as a long-term foreground plant in this tank. Will keep the bigger pile in the front-middle and return to a multi-species group style rather than a single foreground.
- R. macrandra: Growing in the high-current left side region. It will be "all over the place" there; plans to move it to the rear behind the main tree trunk.
- Search for the Perfect Red Row Plant: Evaluates multiple candidates for a specific red row spot:
- Rotala 'butterfly' — has ~4 stems, unsure if it will work.
- Rotala 'sunset' — does not like to be transplanted often (required for this spot).
- Ludwigia sphaerocarpa — pale red, wants something more intense.
- Ludwigia peruensis — does well but is "very common" and has the same color as the L. 'red' next to it.
- Ludwigia arcuata — too spindly.
- Ludwigia inclinata — gets ratty and grows too fast.
🌱 Plants:
- Extensive evaluation of candidate plants for the problematic red row location.
Post #424 (9 Feb 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to add Elatine for the front spot.
- Removing most (if not all) Fissidens and replacing with Monosolenium (Mini Pellia).
🌱 Plants:
- Added Ludwigia gigantea — described as a "nice weed" now placed in the middle front row.
Post #426 (31 Mar 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Still undecided on the front-middle section plant. Likely candidates: Elatine hydropiper or HC/Micranthemum umbrosum 'Monte Carlo'.
- Rotala macrandra is in "serious need of a trim."
- UG Growth Pattern: UG does nothing for 4–8 weeks, then takes off and actively grows/fills in.
🌱 Plants:
- Ludwigia pantanal is shaping up better after a slight CO₂ issue.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Critical Finding: "I've learned this tank is very touchy about CO₂, mostly related to the very high light values."
💡 Lighting:
- May reduce intensity to 75% of max output, like his 180 gallon tank.
🌀 Filtration:
- Considering adding a dual-pipe "Bean Animal" style CPR prefilter to improve the system.
Post #430 (11 Apr 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo' is growing — started from a single tiny sprig. A single sprig of E. hydropiper also survived.
- Mini Pellia vs. Fissidens: Prefers Mini Pellia over Fissidens — Fissidens "can get a bit weedy and frags everywhere."
- Rotala macrandra is now accepted in its current spot — resisted placing it there "for a long long time," but it's "relatively manageable."
- Trimming Method Comparison: Topped 90% of L. senegalensis (instead of uprooting) and replanted the tops. Observations:
- Does not give as nice an immediate look while tops grow back and bottoms re-sprout.
- Results in "pretty dense even growth" afterward.
- Fresh-top-only method produced faster growth but less material for sale and was more work.
- Will uproot and replant the Downoi in a week to clean up and make it more uniform.
- Considering Alternanthera reineckii 'mini' — but long-term look/care is critical.
- Will work with Hygrophila 'Chai', possibly phasing out H. 'araguaia' or moving it.
🌱 Plants:
- UG is "always happiest in this far corner."
- Ludwigia arcuata color development not satisfactory (shaded by wood and Myriophyllum behind it). May remove it and let Rotala 'mini butterfly' arc around the back of the wood — "people buy that plant, they do not buy L. arcuata really."
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- Plant choices are partially driven by marketability — replaces poor sellers (L. arcuata) with better-selling alternatives (mini butterfly).
Post #433 (12 May 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Tried a large lace plant in the rear right corner but it was "just too large." Will try Eriocaulon gussonii in the front open spot instead.
- Monte Carlo Trim Method: Describes the mat as "much firmer than you think, it's a tough thick mat, nowhere near as delicate as Gloss, ET, EH etc." It slowly crawls over things. One small strip removed covered ~10 sq ft in a client's tank. Fish did not uproot it at all.
🌱 Plants:
- Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo' focus.
💡 Lighting:
- Monte Carlo appears to have a very wide light tolerance — growing in a client's tank at only 25–35 µmol.
Page 24
Major rescape: 9 L of ADA Aqua Soil added, wood dividers replaced, Ludwigia pantanal and L. gigantea removed ("to hell with them"), replaced by L. ovalis 'pink'. Monte Carlo becomes a foreground staple with a unique "cascading sod" trim technique. Flow return upgraded to a wider elbow for lower pressure/higher dispersion. George Farmer requests the technical specs, prompting the most detailed system summary in the entire thread — including the most precise dosing regimen to date.
Show details #24 …
Post #435 (2 Jun 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Monte Carlo "Cascading Sod" Method: The author describes a unique pruning technique he believes he is alone in using: cut a 1–2" sod strip along the front edge, allowing the plant to cascade down to the glass naturally. This avoids the "tacky" look of foreground plants pressed against the glass and produces a nice sod to sell with fairly quick recovery.
- Mowed Ludwigia senegalensis and replanted tops in the bare rear corner — good as a contrast on its own.
- "Mini" Alternanthera reineckii doing better than anticipated. Will stay short if trimmed once every 1–2 months.
🌱 Plants:
- Eriocaulon 'parkeri' needs time to fatten up and adapt.
- UG is "at that threshold from looking crappy to where it'll look like a nice thick consistent mat" — 1–2 weeks away.
- Rotala macrandra has survived high current and repeated aggressive trimmings.
- Will add a couple of pondweeds in the back corner.
Post #436 (2 Jun 2013):
🐟 Livestock:
- Botia sidthimunki (Dwarf Chain Loach) do not bother Assassin snails or the "side winder little snailers." They also leave shrimp alone. Most only eat Physa pond snails, and "not very well."
- Botia striata is the most effective snail eater he has found. Not sure if they'd go after Red Cherry Shrimp but doubts they'd mess with Amano shrimp.
Post #437 (2 Jun 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Plans to cut sod from the middle of the Monte Carlo mat. The plant will fill back in over 2–3 weeks, creating "nice cool looking waves" depending on when the sod is cut and new growth invades.
Post #439 (2 Jun 2013):
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- No aeration at night: "All it does is suspend more particles which cause the water to be cloudy." A decent filter and good surface movement do better than the best aeration.
- Key principle: CO₂ goes in but also goes out (degassing). If degassing is stable AND addition is stable, you can add a fair amount. Having a lot of O₂ also makes it easier on livestock.
🌀 Filtration:
- Good O₂, filtration, and good CO₂ adjustment are the keys — aeration at night is unnecessary with proper filtration and surface movement.
Post #440 (3 Jul 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Major Rescape:
- Removed most wood row dividers and replaced them.
- Ludwigia 'red' removed entirely — replaced with a short row of Ludwigia ovalis 'pink' (a much rarer plant). Slower growing and more bushy.
- Removed two "weeds": Ludwigia pantanal and Ludwigia gigantea. "To hell with them."
- Expanded Tonina — trimming it is a "PITA" but it sells well and does not grow fast.
- Moved Rotala macrandra to the rear. Pulled Alternanthera reineckii 'mini' up front — doing well after a couple of weeks.
- Eriocaulon species are back. May try to bring back Erio Type 3 — likes the plant but current was wrong for its previous location.
- Ludwigia senegalensis will be pruned like a hedge — no more uprooting/replanting tops every week or two. Mini butterfly responded very well to this method.
- Added a new piece of wood behind the main piece; needed stones to weigh down the new wood divider.
- Will allow Downoi to fill out and take over the foreground.
🌱 Plants:
- UG is "out of control" and will need uprooting and replanting soon — it tends to look "bad and ratty while growing back in longer than it looks good." However: "I've never seen anyone's UG look like mine."
- Erios are "nice to deal with."
🟤 Substrate:
- Added about another 9-liter bag of ADA Aqua Soil to the tank.
Post #442 (4 Jul 2013):
📖 Important Notes:
- When asked if any plant has ever "failed to grow": "Well, no, but some have failed to grow the way I want them to grow." Some did not like the placement, current, light, being crowded, or frequent trimming.
- "Growing is a rather easy aspect. Aesthetic pruning is quite another matter."
🌱 Plants:
- L. pantanal has been moved to the 180 gallon where it grows "really consistent" with 3–4 week trim intervals and less lighting.
Post #444 (4 Jul 2013):
✂️ Maintenance & Horticultural Methods:
- Trimmed and replanted UG. Added all new divider wood slats. Re-tied and expanded Mini Pellia branches. Trimmed background plants back significantly.
- Will likely swap Ludwigia senegalensis and Alternanthera 'mini'.
- The spot where L. pantanal was (now L. senegalensis) is a "PITA spot to trim" because of overhead wood. It also takes the full brunt of current — if overgrown, algae appears on plants at that spot.
🌱 Plants:
- Ludwigia 'red' is gone. The middle plant is Ludwigia ovalis 'pink' — much rarer. Slower grower than L. 'red' which looked very similar.
- Long Downoi row will look nice in a few weeks.
- L. senegalensis and Rotala 'mini butterfly' can be trimmed by topping (no uprooting) — making the job easier and reducing dust/muck.
🌀 Filtration / Flow:
- Return Upgrade: Switched from older 3/4" PVC to a loc-line 3/4" → 1" elbow (now white). This produces a "nicer current, lower pressure and wider dispersion."
- Testing a 1¼" and 1½" elbow return, then plans to have one custom-made from Pyrex/Kimax glass.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- Flow philosophy: "High flow but low velocity/pressure is ideal, like a slow moving river, vs a single intense water coming into a large pool. This is what is key about flow, not so much total volume of the filter."
Post #448 (4 Jul 2013) — ⭐ Technical Summary:
📖 Top 5 Lessons Learned (from this tank):
- Contrast between species is an excellent teacher of what and where to place plant groups — teaches you how to use color as a painter.
- As you learn to grow a new species, you learn more about gardening overall.
- Color has a strong impact — as much as the best-done scape without much color.
- Don't pay attention to "styles" — if it looks good, it is good.
- The tank demonstrates you can make money selling/farming plants and livestock, rotate species, and still have a nice scape showing various gardening methods.
💡 Lighting:
- Fixture: ATI dimmable, 8× 54W T5 bulbs.
- Schedule: 8 hours total, with a 1–2 hour ramp-up and ramp-down at each end.
🫧 CO2 & flow:
- CO₂ comes on with the lights — ramping of CO₂ and light match evenly. CO₂ turns off about 30 minutes before the lights do.
- Regulator: Dual-stage, custom-made, high-end stainless steel.
- Level: Best estimate: ~50 ppm most of the time.
🌀 Filtration & Flow:
- Overflow: CPR overflow with dual pipes.
- Sump: CPR 1000 sump with sealed lid.
- Flow rate: About 900 gph (~3,400 L/h). Had a Vortech MP20 but removed it — "no need really."
- Return: Switched to a larger outflow (26 mm vs the old 18 mm). Will modify further for larger flow with less pressure.
- Flow philosophy: "High flow but low velocity/pressure is ideal, like a slow moving river, vs a single intense water coming into a large pool."
🧪 Fertilization/Dosing:
- "Somewhat EI, modified."
- Macros (2–3× per week):
- 15 ppm NO₃ / K⁺ — 1.5 teaspoons KNO₃
- 5 ppm PO₄ — a little under 1 teaspoon KH₂PO₄
- GH Booster: About 1.5 tablespoons after each water change.
- Traces (daily): CMS+B + DTPA Fe + Fe Gluconate in a 4:1:1 teaspoon ratio, dissolved in 1 liter of hot tap water. Dose 30–60 mL daily (some days missed).
🐟 Livestock (current stock):
- ~40 Botia sidthimunki (Dwarf Chain Loach)
- 4 Gnathonemus elephas (Elephant Nose)
- 4 Gold Nugget plecos
- 2–3 Otocinclus catfish
- 1 Red Arc Pencilfish (the only one that never jumped)
- ~70 Amano shrimp
- ~200 Fire shrimp
💰 Sales & Business Model:
- The tank clearly shows there are no long-term issues with high light, CO₂, and ferts at the gardening/aquascaping scale with virtually every plant species combination.
- "The only issues really are where to sell the plants." Making $500/month from a single tank in plant sales provides strong motivation for proper care.
- "Only took me 30 years to figure out how to do it."
Page 25
Lighter maintenance phase: the author steps back from intensive uprooting, switches to topping background plants, and sells most of the overgrown Monte Carlo. L. pantanal returns temporarily. A philosophical note reverses the usual Nature-style approach: "I chose the plants first, then added hardscape to suit the species" — a Dutch-style emphasis.
Show details #25 …
Post #450 & #455 (6–14 Jul 2013):
🌱 Plants:
- Identifies the pink-hued stem as Ludwigia verticillata var. 'Red pantanal'.
- Has removed it to the 180 gallon where it "does better and is not so much work."
💰 Sales:
- Sells for $45 shipped for 6 stems in the USA. "It grows really fast."
- Shipping to the EU is about 50/50 success rate — best to try in autumn.
Post #457 (14 Jul 2013):
✂️ Maintenance:
- Going back to older species for better contrast: R. wallichii and Ludwigia peruensis.
- Will tidy Tonina into an "L"-shaped row instead of a triangle wedge. Add 2–3 more Erios to match the Downoi on the right.
- Needs to "hack the Monte Carlo back in a huge way."
Post #459 (16 Jul 2013):
✂️ Maintenance:
- Reduced workload: "I stopped doing so much work on the tank." Has been topping background plants instead of uprooting. Seeks a work/life balance — some stems may return even though they offer little sales revenue and require more work.
Post #461 (16 Jul 2013):
💰 Sales:
- Monte Carlo yields profit, but the author spreads and uses it in client/friend tanks first to learn more — "a little delayed gratification helps."
- MC bricks are "solid plant biomass" — an 8×8 cm brick contains a lot of plants.
Post #463 (18 Jul 2013):
✂️ Maintenance — cloudiness explained:
- Tank is cloudy due to ADA Aqua Soil dust from uprooting and moving plants — not bacteria. Also mad pearling and CO₂ mist contribute. The 80 cm front-to-back depth and high-light photography wash out colors.
- "This is not a finished photoshot. This is just how it is right then when I happen to take a pic, warts and all."
- Green MC wedge was intentionally highlighted as a showcase for a new foreground species. Will pull it back gradually.
- Uprooting and replanting nice tops is more of a Dutch horticulture method vs. Nature style which uses almost exclusively topping.
Post #465 (2 Aug 2013):
✂️ Maintenance:
- Added different wood slats for borders. Added L. pantanal back temporarily. MC overtaking the front — sold most and replanted sprigs. Repositioned Erios. Removed Echinodorus 'Vesuvius'.
- Downoi showing lots of new growth. L. ovalis 'pink' is "nicer than the old Ludwigia red" — grows slower and denser (not really pink though).
- Tank is "pretty close" to where he wants it once UG, MC, and backgrounds grow back.
Post #466 (2 Aug 2013):
📖 Scaping Philosophy:
- Reverse approach vs. Nature style: "I chose the plants first, then added and changed the hardscape to suit the plant species I wanted." This is closer to Dutch style — highlighting the plants, with hardscape as secondary.
- Compares to Japanese landscape gardens which are very old — emphasizes long-term maintenance without breaking the tank down, akin to bonsai.
Page 26
Brief update with photos. The author shares pH data (5.9 daytime / 7.1 nighttime) and provides a detailed explanation of why the wet/dry sump maintains 14–28% higher O₂ than canister filters, making high CO₂ safer for livestock.
Show details #26 …
Post #468 & #470 (8 Aug 2013):
🫧 CO₂ & pH:
- pH: About 5.9 during the day (CO₂ on), rising to 7.1 at night (CO₂ off). This ~1.2 pH unit drop corresponds to very high CO₂ injection.
🌀 Filtration — Wet/Dry O₂ Advantage:
- The wet/dry sump consistently (across 6 replicates, not just one tank) maintains 1–2 ppm higher O₂ than canister filters.
- Given O₂ saturation of ~7–7.6 ppm at his temperatures, this is 14–28% higher O₂ — a "HUGE" difference.
- This difference is stable and independent of time of day.
- Reasons: lower Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD), surface skimming removes the film layer (increasing diffusion per Fick's law), stable degassing rates, less CO₂ build-up risk.
- Key insight: a "sealed cap" on the water surface (typical with canister filters) causes CO₂ to build up without diffusing out, potentially reaching toxic levels. The wet/dry skimmed system allows better CO₂ outgassing, reducing this risk.
Page 27
Dosing update (30 ppm NO₃, 10 ppm PO₄, 2–3 ppm Fe), CO₂ regulator photo (Swagelok), pruning method comparison (uprooting vs. topping), and philosophical notes on Dutch style FTS-only contests vs. multi-angle viewing.
Show details #27 …
Post #474 & #476 (9–12 Sep 2013):
🧪 Updated Dosing Regimen:
- 30 ppm NO₃ per week ("I do this for most tanks")
- ~10 ppm PO₄ per week
- 2–3 ppm Fe as CMS + DTPA Fe mix
- K⁺ likely in the 40+ ppm ranges
🫧 CO₂:
- Double Trunk Elephant Nose are "hyper CO₂ sensitive" — they are fine at 50 ppm. The 180 gal sits at 65–70 ppm.
- Credits good flow, wet/dry filters, and higher O₂ for this safety margin. Adjusts "very slowly" and watches tanks.
- Uses "the best CO₂ regulator set ups possible" — posts a photo of his custom Swagelok dual-stage regulator, noting "these make ADA stuff look like cheap plastic crap."
- No 24/7 CO₂: "I see no good reason to ever add CO₂ 24/7." Amano calls it "taboo."
Post #478, #482, #484 & #486 (Sep–Oct 2013):
✂️ Pruning Methods:
- Uprooting + replanting tops → better for R. macrandra. Topping only → better hedge-like appearance for most stems.
- Hybrid approach: uproot a couple of times to clean ratty lower stems, then once healthy growth is established, only top the plants.
🌱 Plant Changes:
- Removed tennellus and pink ovalis. Added pennywort and Red Ludwigia back. Red Pantanal is back.
- One Erio yellowing from base — unknown cause. UG about to "lift off" — will add ADA AS on top.
- Monte Carlo "looks decent now, took longer than I thought."
📖 Aquascaping Philosophy:
- Dutch style contests use FTS only. The author finds this limiting — aquariums can be enjoyed from many angles. Amano shares this multi-angle aesthetic, rooted in Japanese gardening.
- Tank dimensions: 18" depth is "just too short" for what he wants. Considers upgrading to a 48×30×24" tank.
Page 28
High biomas leads to NO₃ depletion (BGA appears at low N, disappears after KNO₃ dosing — ~50-60 ppm/week needed). Erio compressum care: light is key, sediment doesn't matter, debunks KH/ADA soil myths. Erio setaceum type 3 is far more finicky.
Show details #28 …
Post #490 (9 Oct 2013):
🧪 Fertilization / NO₃ Depletion Discovery:
- Letting tank grow overgrown intentionally. Added more CO₂ and ferts.
- BGA correlation: Spots BGA in tops of Tornado when NO₃ drops too low — BGA disappears a day or two after dosing KNO₃.
- Thought ~30 ppm NO₃/week + heavy fish feeding (~10 ppm/week) = ~40 ppm would be non-limiting. But added another 15 ppm dose → totals ~50-60 ppm NO₃/week.
- Attributes high demand to: very high CO₂, very high light, packed stems, shallow-wide tank geometry.
Post #492 (11 Oct 2013):
🌱 Erio compressum Care — Myths Debunked:
- Light is the main factor. Resistant to algae and CO₂ variation.
- Sediment does NOT matter — wimpy root system. Can be floated. Grows better in higher current.
- Suspects it dislikes hard water/high KH (5-8° possibly upper range).
- Myth busted: "Likes Low pH / ADA or rich sediment = myth."
- Erio setaceum type 3 is far more difficult — "finicky plant."
Post #496 (17 Oct 2013):
🌀 Filtration — Minimal Mechanical:
- No mechanical filter other than a 4-inch block of 20 ppi sponge, cleaned once every 3–6 months.
- Shows before/after: very cloudy after uprooting → crystal clear next day.
Page 29
Filtration details (foam block only, Ocean Clear cartridge abandoned), Elatine hydropiper cultivation challenges, and extensive T5 bulb experimentation ($1000+ spent on bulbs). Final bulb configuration documented.
Show details #29 …
Post #500 (26 Dec 2013):
🌀 Filtration:
- Only a foam block for mechanical filtration. Used to run an Ocean Clear 25 sq ft 20-micron cartridge but it clogged too much, affecting CO₂ and flow rates. "PITA to clean and replace."
- Bag filters are the only thing he might use in the future.
Post #502 & #503 (28 Dec 2013):
🌱 Elatine hydropiper Challenges:
- EH is "a bugger." Finer sediment (ADA powder type best), no fish, maybe only smaller shrimp. Amanos will pull some up. Likes current. Hard to get it to pile densely on itself. GH doesn't matter as long as there is some.
- Erio compressum has side shoots — really liking the tank. Erio compressum divided into 3-4 plants already.
💰 Sales:
- Trimmed $380 worth of plants in last 2 weeks.
Post #504 & #505 (30 Dec 2013):
💡 T5 Bulb Experimentation:
- Final bulb configuration (8× 54W): 1 Giesemann Aquaflora, 2 ZooMed Flora Sun, 3 Sunwave Wavepoint, 4 Red Wave Wavepoint, 5 URI Red Sun, 6 Sunwave Wavepoint, 7 ZooMed Flora Sun, 8 Giesemann Aquaflora.
- Total: 4 red bulbs + Aquafloras (slightly pinkish but look white next to reds) + blueish 12000K Sunwaves.
- Tried Coralife Colormax — weird coloration, reduced PAR by 20-25 µmol.
- Has done more bulb configurations than anyone for T5s — spent over $1000 on bulbs alone across 60, 90, and 120 cm lengths.
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Plant-by-plant assessment, new bulb config effects on red plants, Riccardia (Mini Pellia) cultivation method, BBA outbreak from 2-day CO₂ outage, Trithuria (Blood vomit) management.
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Post #510 & #511 (12 Jan 2014):
🌱 Plant Status: Erio setaceum type 3 recovering. EH filling slowly — much longer than HC/Gloss/UG (but means less trimming). Syngonanthus filling in. Blood vomits feel out of place. Erio type 3 might expand instead of P. stellata narrow. EH rooting better in finer sediment despite less light — light may be less a factor than thought.
💡 New Bulbs Effect: R. wallichii and L. senegalensis "really popped out," L. sphaerocarpa significant red shift, A. reineckii mini and R. macrandra/Cuphea "deeper red, less mauve." Not affected: Ludwigia "red," Rotala mini butterfly, H. araguaia.
Post #513 & #514 (17-19 Jan 2014):
🌱 Riccardia (Mini Pellia) Method: Tying to wood is not good — stuff into cracks and wedge in holes, grows out nicely. Much easier than Riccia (though doesn't have the same pearls). In 70g Buce tank (lower light) it grows differently than in 120 (3× more light). Lava rocks okay — anything with texture.
Post #516 (29 Jan 2014):
🦠 BBA from CO₂ Outage: Got a touch of BBA when CO₂ ran out for 2 days. Changed current to increase CO₂ and reduce degassing; fish seemed more sluggish but fine. 6 weeks later: minor BBA remains on some wood, trimmed affected leaves.
🌱 Erio compressum: "King of the Erios." Trithuria (Blood vomits) treated like hair grass — red-based Belem.
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Sales revenue (~$500/month typical), low-N effects (6 days without KNO₃ caused yellowing and pinholes), Trithuria propagation method, trimming difficulty rankings.
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Post #520 & #521 (5 Feb 2014):
💰 Sales Revenue:
- ~$500/month is a normal typical month. "Much better than winning any ADA contest."
- Trithuria, Downoi, Tonina, or A. reineckii can each fetch $100-200 per trim (trimmed every 1-2 months).
- "Took me 20 years in the plant hobby, 35+ in the aquarium hobby to figure out how to do it."
Post #523 (8 Feb 2014):
🧪 Low-N Effects: No KNO₃ for 6 days — EH yellowed, A. reineckii mini had a few holes. Other plants seemed fine. "Low N is not wise."
✂️ Trimming Difficulty Rankings:
- Hardest: Tonina (not topped, many of them, sell well, backlist of orders).
- Easy weeds: R. mini butterfly, L. tornado, Mini milfoil, H. araguaia, Blood vomits, Downoi, Cuphea, mosses/liverworts.
- Fastest growing: R. wallichii, R. macrandra, L. sphaerocarpa.
- Erio type 3 is "canary in the coal mine" — if it does well, everything else will.
Post #525 (12 Feb 2014):
🌱 Trithuria Propagation: Uproot section every ~2 months, replant small crowns, sell larger crowns.
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Mostly photos. Erio compressum thinning (removed 15 plants). New direction planned for next incarnation. Developing one's own style is as good as copying the best.
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Post #530 (3 Mar 2014):
🌱 Erio compressum thinning: Removed 15 plants. Blood vomits easy.
Post #533 (18 Mar 2014):
📖 Next Direction: "I have a new idea and direction for the next incarnation."
Post #534 (18 Mar 2014):
📖 On Style: "Some influences are from Dutch, some personal and some Nature. Developing one's own style is as good as copying the best styles. Both skills are needed to learn and keep the different ideas going in the hobby."
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Philosophical scaping reflections, detailed plant assessment, KH/CO₂ uptake relationship, dramatic CO₂ outage recovery (8 days → clean in 2 days), lighting schedule confirmed.
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Post #536 (9 Apr 2014):
📖 Style Reflection: "I'm not sure this is really a 'Western' aesthetic... It is not traditional in either style." Blending intellectual, emotional, intuitive. Only one tank like this — too much work otherwise.
🌱 Plant Rundown: Erio setaceum type 1 — slower growing, dichotomous branch tops, bright white-green contrast. A. reineckii mini similar growth rate. R. macrandra = weed. Micrantherum 'Monte Carlo' — sent to Tropica for commercial availability. Wood completely engulfed by Riccardia. L. sphaerocarpa grows ~3-4" per week. Bladderwort = biggest PITA.
✂️ Hacking Process: Uprooted and replanted tops of most rear row; topped but didn't uproot L. senegalensis. ADA AS clouds but clears < 1 day.
Post #539 & #540 (Apr-May 2014):
🫧 KH & CO₂: KH blocks CO₂ uptake in ~10-20 Rotala/Ludwigia species. 3-4 degrees likely fine. Adding more gas does NOT rectify it.
🦠 CO₂ Outage Recovery: 10 days away, CO₂ ran empty for 8 days. Tank full of algae. 2 days later: completely clean. "Suck on them apples." Didn't replant all stems (~50%). Two good water changes. Used one 1/2 dose of Algaefix (kills green hair algae; lethal to shrimp but only lost 5-10 out of 500+). "Rest is just good care."
Post #543 (24 May 2014):
💡 Lighting Schedule: 100% for 6 hours, 1 hour ramp up and 1 hour ramp down (0% → 100%). Ramp based on %, not number of bulbs.
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Pre-open-house prep, HC declared 5-10× easier than Elatine hydropiper. Tank redo announced — certification exams provide the right mindset.
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Post #547 (12 Jul 2014):
🌱 HC vs. Elatine hydropiper: "HC is insanely nice compared to messing with the E. hydropiper. 5-10× easier."
✂️ Redid some stuff for SF club open house. Will redo Blood vomits. Moved Erio setaceum to back. Uprooted all A. reineckii mini and replanted.
Post #551 (25 Aug 2014):
📖 Tank Redo: Likely going to redo the tank. Has 2 certification exams for business/contract work — redoing the tank works well in that mindset.
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Final comprehensive tank specs, dosing summary, and photo integrity philosophy.
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Post #559 (29 Sep 2014) — ⭐ Final System Summary:
🧊 Tank: 120 × 75 × 45 cm (~120 gallon).
💡 Light: 120 cm 54W T5 bulbs, mix of mostly red + a couple white/blue.
🌀 Filter: CPR 1000 wet/dry, Herbie-style overflow. ~700 gph flow, slight sway in some locations.
🧪 Ferts: EI, dosed 2× a week; traces more frequently (5-6× a week). Does NOT measure ferts — doesn't need to with EI.
💧 Water changes: Generally 2× a week, about 60%.
📖 Photo Integrity: No photoshopping — auto settings on Canon G12 or Canon 5D MKII, just resize/crop. "I try to keep what I see and what is actually in the tank true." Videos are the best for seeing what tanks really look like.
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Water change philosophy, EI clarification, flow discussion, and tank redo announced (Version 4.0).
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Post #564 (3 Nov 2014):
💧 Water Change Philosophy:
- Water changes are mostly for cleaning up after gardening — pulling ADA AS and replanting makes a mess. ADA suggests large weekly WC but "ADA gets a free pass."
- "Dosing is NOT why you do a water change."
- Does fewer WC on tanks that receive less gardening (70 gal Buce tank, maybe once a month — same dosing otherwise).
- Uprooting/trimming lowers O₂ — WC remove dirt/dust and add O₂ back. If you don't uproot much, WC isn't required.
- "Lots of water changes cure most issues folks often have." Simple, effective, keeps tank very clean.
🧪 EI Philosophy:
- EI has no set rule — it's arbitrary. Offers a simple method to set ppm ranges tight or loose. Start at 1×/week 50% for easy math.
- "Dosing is easy, no chore at all." Making water change easy is a good idea.
📖 Flow: Shallow tank, wide low-pressure flow across the top. 180 gal has much more flow (adds Vortech for well over 10×/hr).
Post #567 & #568 (Nov 2014):
💰 Sold ~20 Erio sieboldianums. Pulled out 3-4 sets of hardscape materials.
📖 Tank Redo Announced: Wood removed, "Version 4.0" next. New hardscape: stones horizontal relative to sediment slope. Started with a pile ~3×1×2 meters of wood, pared down.
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Final page: tank breakdown announced, new rock collecting hobby revealed (~600 kg collected, sold 300 kg), rare and colorful plants to be moved to a new 70-gallon setup.
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Post #571 & #572 (20 Nov 2015):
📖 Tank Breakdown & New Direction:
- Getting ready to break down the tank and redo. Known for wood, but has been collecting nice rock locally in California — highly textured, green-blue hue to earthy brown, thin plate-like (can be cut/broken easily).
- Has ~600 kg collected, sold ~300 kg. Collected while mountain biking — spotted along a trail. Carries 1.7 km each way down a mountainside with a backpack.
- Future Plan: Thinking of switching rare and colorful plants to the new 70-gallon. "Makes enough to pay for the time and gas... but not much more."